Bi-Amping Options B&W 801 Series 2


New to me Bowers & Wilkins floor-standing full-range monitors with two sets of binding posts.
Currently have dual MC252 solid-state amps (with autoformers) connected as follows: (1) to both bass drivers and (1) to midrange and treble drivers.

Meanwhile, I have a Rogue Audio Stereo 100 sitting idle (although I could hook it up to my vintage Warfedales). I’m wondering if I would be better served by bridging both the MC252s and putting them both on bass duty (500 Watts to each driver), and put the Stereo 100 to use driving the midrange and tweeters. What do you think?

Especially interested to hear from someone with experience driving this particular speaker, which sounds wonderful, by the way. My system is fully described (but not well pictured) under my profile in Virtual Systems. And, if anyone has a lead on an original Bass Alignment filter, I’m all ears.

128x128oldrooney

B&W states a minimum impedance of 3 ohms.

I've heard my 803 D3 with amps rated at 150/300 w/ch and amps rated at 600 w/ch.

They sound better with higher power amps.

They love current. They devour it and want more!

You can't have too much power, but you can sure have too little.

With identical amps you are better off splitting them horizontally.  That is, one amp per side.  This spreads out any current demands on the power supply more evenly.  The alternative puts all the strain on the bass on one amplifier's power supply.

Also, PS - Bass alignment filters can be fully compensated for in Roon using the DSP features.

@erik_squires Hi Erik.

Paul McGowan did a video on horizontal and vertical 

bi-amping. He said horizontal configuration is better for using different amps, one for the mids/tweeters and one for the woofers.

He said vertical configuration is better for identical amps, one for the left channel and one for the right channel.

@tomcarr I’ve never seen an impedance curve for the 801 S2, but I checked the user manual specs and found that while they are rated at ‘Nominal 8 Ohms’ in parantheses immediately following it reads “not falling below 4 Ohms.” I expect the drooping impedance would most likely occur in the lower frequencies. I think I’ll try the MC252 taps for the low frequencies over from 8 to 4 Ohms. 
I also checked the specs on the MC252. Since it has autoformers, it can deliver max power however you hook it up: 250 Watts in stereo and 500 Watts in mono continuous sine wave with up to peaks of 50 Amps to each speaker. We’re I to go back to using both MC252s on the B&Ws I could run them either bridged or parallel into 4 Ohms. The parallel configuration would deliver the most current, I would think. One day I may try it, but after lugging that 96 lb. beast upstairs yesterday, it’s not going back down for a while. It seems perfectly suited to drive the XRT20s. 
 

@erik_squires Point taken on using identical amps as monoblocks. To be honest I was a bit intimidated at the prospect, I was afraid I might blow something up. But there is plenty of protection built into the McIntosh amps. I may try to source an MC2255 for the XRT20s and move the MC252 back downstairs for the B&Ws, or possibly bring the 65 lb. Rogue upstairs for the XRT20s, although the XRT20s could bring the Rogue 100 into clipping, and does NOT have the protection the McIntosh units provide. I think my current configuration makes the best use of the power I have available. 

OP- I LOVE the idea of using both 252s for your 801s!

Do it, and report your impressions.

I'm betting the sound will be effortless, and sublime!