I use 80 grit, dry, changes them from hard to clean gloss to satin finish pretty quickly. Much less maintenance going forward ;)
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I like to start with 40 grit. But I am impatient. Get to 220 as soon as possible. Then jewelers rouge.
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@ghdprentice Where do you think it got the answer?
I will stick to Maguire's detailing products.
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Lot’s of good and also silly suggestions here...a few suggestions and corrections if you will...
- don’t use alcohol on your speakers, eye glasses or TV
- yes, treat like automotive paint
- yes, spray your clean dust cloth lightly with distilled water
- don’t press hard, or at all, even a clean cloth can put swirls in the paint
- don’t dust or polish in circles - that is where the swirls come from - use straight lines - you can still put fine scratches in the paint if you use too much pressure but they will be less obvious
- if you want to use car "wax", don’t use actual carnauba wax unless you know what your are doing
- consumer ceramic automotive paint products generally have a low silica content and are not the same as the pro stuff - you can get your car done with a ceramic coating done "professionally" for anywhere from $200 to $5,000 - there is a reason for the massive range in cost, most of which is the preparation of the paint’s surface prior to application
- far easier and effective to use a high quality synthetic paint sealant - I use Wolf and Adams - do one or two coats, after that your are done for a long time (unless your speaker is in the sun)
- after that a detail spray works wonders, after you have lightly dusted - but spray the cloth not the speaker
- If you have scuffs and a few light "surface scratches", Maguier’s cleaner wax works really well - but it will not buff out or fill in actual scratches that have pierced the clear coat
- DO NOT attempt paint correction (the removal of swirls and scratches) as suggested above unless you know what you are doing AND you have the required power tools and pads - automotive compounds, glazes and polishes require machine application and removal to be effective
Most importantly, learn to ignore the imperfections.
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Novus #1. Been using this amazing stuff for years since it was recommended to me by Pat DiBurro, the amazing "right coast" luthier and brilliant guitar repairman, and he got the idea from the late Bill Collings of Collings Guitars when he was hanging out at their shop years ago. I use it mostly on my acoustic guitars and my motorcycle helmet face shield. Higher quality guitar finishes are often nitrocellulose (my faves are anyway) which is a pretty finicky and often a very thin finish so this stuff will work well on glossy speakers regardless of what the finish is. If there’s something better out there I haven’t heard of it. For scratches Novus makes grittier stuff you can use in stages with #1 being the final gloss polish. Don’t use car stuff...ever...sandpaper...really?
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