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Question about suitable fuse metals

I've been wanting to experiment with audiophile fuses for a while but the cost and the concern of blowing one of these costly fuses has kept me from purchasing.  However, I read that solid slugs actually sound better than fuses and cost WAY less, so I purchased a 6" rod of 99.99 copper and, because I wasn't really thinking, also purchased another 6" rod of titanium.  I guess I was thinking of rhodium, palladium, or platinum, not titanium.   I had these cut down to 20mm and, so far have tried them in my amp, a Red Dragon S500, and my DAC, the Bel Canto 2.8, which I run direct without a preamp.   The titanium slug sounds pretty darn good in the DAC, noticeably better than the copper. I tried one in the amp as well and that combo did not work well at all.  The amp is doing better with the copper slug.  I looked up the electrical conductivity of titanium and found it is a rather poor conductor.  Is there any risk to the DAC using the titanium slug, given the poor electrial conductivity?  Thanks for any relevant input.

lcherepkai
verafiaudio
742 posts
 

Good Evening 

@lcherepkai - feel free to contact me at verafiaudio@gmail.com

I have a variety of Sluggos in stock - happy to help you

High Purity Copper

High Purity Brass

The above with a Gold Immersion (I like these a great deal) Rhodium is coming as are other variants. 

I can share this much - there are now 208 SDFB in the field working fine - more than 60% of owners have bought multiples after testing our product - zero returns and zero defectives. 

 

SDFB has "saved" several systems that I'm aware of (very safe and proven tech)

The metallurgy does seem to matter - I have Purons with Furutech Blades and I have to admit, works great 

Here to help anyone interested in this. 

Getting ready to travel, but I will do my best to answer quickly. 

Thanks - Mark  

 

larryi
4,033 posts
 

If you open the amp, you will see that the fuse holder has two tabs where the wires are attached to the fuse holder.  Simply de-solder or cut the wires at the tab and then connect up the two ends of the wire together (solder then insulate with electrician's tape or shrink wrapping.  Even better would be to replace the wires that went to the fuse holder with a new wire that connects up the two destinations of the wires going to the fuse holder; this would mean no joint in the middle of the wire and no worry about insulating a joint.

lcherepkai OP
280 posts
 

verafiaudio:  that's definitely something to consider although I'm really not wanting to spend the money on the system at the moment and why the $50 bucks spent on 14 slugs seems like such an insane bargain.  I'll keep the SDFB in mind.  Thank you very much

 

larryi:  I'm not much of a DIY guy myself but that may be something I can do.  I also have a work buddy who builds his own equipment so...  I will check into that.  Thanks!

mrdecibel
3,064 posts
 

larryi    +1

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