@lcherepkai Yes, it does. Mark Schifter can supply a high quality 1 ft cord called a pigtail (or Piggy) which works well with set up. He also has a variety of high quality metal sluggos that clearly changes the audio presentation. I've tried all of them. Also, the swiss digital fuse box can be reused if it is tripped. Just unplug and plug back in. Last fuse you will ever need. And the sluggos are free. Green flashing diodes indicate when it's ready. Definitely improves the sound and its more than subtle. Mark is a gentleman to deal with as well. He is very transparent and knowledgable, having developed Equi core products. His email is verifiaudiollc@gmail.com.
Question about suitable fuse metals
I've been wanting to experiment with audiophile fuses for a while but the cost and the concern of blowing one of these costly fuses has kept me from purchasing. However, I read that solid slugs actually sound better than fuses and cost WAY less, so I purchased a 6" rod of 99.99 copper and, because I wasn't really thinking, also purchased another 6" rod of titanium. I guess I was thinking of rhodium, palladium, or platinum, not titanium. I had these cut down to 20mm and, so far have tried them in my amp, a Red Dragon S500, and my DAC, the Bel Canto 2.8, which I run direct without a preamp. The titanium slug sounds pretty darn good in the DAC, noticeably better than the copper. I tried one in the amp as well and that combo did not work well at all. The amp is doing better with the copper slug. I looked up the electrical conductivity of titanium and found it is a rather poor conductor. Is there any risk to the DAC using the titanium slug, given the poor electrial conductivity? Thanks for any relevant input.
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Good Evening
SDFB has "saved" several systems that I'm aware of (very safe and proven tech) |
If you open the amp, you will see that the fuse holder has two tabs where the wires are attached to the fuse holder. Simply de-solder or cut the wires at the tab and then connect up the two ends of the wire together (solder then insulate with electrician's tape or shrink wrapping. Even better would be to replace the wires that went to the fuse holder with a new wire that connects up the two destinations of the wires going to the fuse holder; this would mean no joint in the middle of the wire and no worry about insulating a joint. |
verafiaudio: that's definitely something to consider although I'm really not wanting to spend the money on the system at the moment and why the $50 bucks spent on 14 slugs seems like such an insane bargain. I'll keep the SDFB in mind. Thank you very much
larryi: I'm not much of a DIY guy myself but that may be something I can do. I also have a work buddy who builds his own equipment so... I will check into that. Thanks! |
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