Subwoofers: Ported or sealed?

@jaytor wrote: "[Open baffle subs] don’t pressurize the room like a conventional sub - the bass is there in the room. For music from traditional instruments like double bass or kick drums, this sounds very natural. These instruments don’t pressurize the room either.

"But if you are looking for that kick-in-the-chest sound, this type of sub is probably not for you."

Imo the advantage of an open-baffle, dipole sub is better room-interaction than monopole (omnidirectional) subs, resulting in smoother in-room bass. And smooth bass is "fast" bass, perceptually, because it is the in-room peaks which take longer to decay into inaudibility and therefore muddy up the bass. The result includes superb pitch definition in the bass region. But one trade-off is, good dipole bass doesn’t kick you in the chest like good monopole bass does. I say this as a long-time dealer for dipole speakers (SoundLabs).

Imo there is a technique which can combine in-room bass smoothness with kick-in-the-chest sound, and that is to use multiple monopole subs intelligently distributed. As the number of distributed bass sources increases, the in-room frequency response smoothness increases, and the variation in that frequency response from one location to another within the room decreases.

Disclaimer: I manufacture a distributed multisub system, BUT the concept can be implemented just by using multiple subs and spreading them around the room, and the subs do not have to match.

Imo the room’s effects in the bass region are roughly an order of magnitude more significant than the differences between comparably high-quality subs, so arguably HOW MANY subs you use (and how you use them) can matter more than WHICH sub(s) you use.

Duke

Or just get a monster sealed sub like the SVS PB-16 that can get low while sealed.  1500 watts and have the best of both.  Or preferably two.

I follow the “there is no replacement for displacement” philosophy for subs.

This much talk about subwoofers can’t help me wonder about how many folks out there are using them correctly. Fortunately there is software to help configure them properly… but, I am surprised how often I have found folks with them turned up way too loud and with the cross overs way too high… doing more damage to the sound than good.

Recently, I was over a friend’s house comparing some components. He put on an electronic album with lots of bass… I couldn’t tell anything about the components. I asked about the settings on the subwoofer. It was set to something like 60% volume and a crossover 120 hertz. His speakers were flat to 40hz.

So I had him adjust it while I listened. We ended up with a crossover of 35hz and 20% volume. So both knobs were really close to zero. He was shocked how much better it sounded… the bass wasn’t obscuring the other instruments, the sound field opened up. We listened to the electronic tune… massive single bass notes turned into many… a whole different thing.

Home theater is completely different… you want to rattle your windows. But for 2 channel audio it is really easy to do more damage than good and detailed discussions about sub woofer output bring up concerns of over use of subs.

I currently have no subs in my main system, while there are two B&W 800 series subs in our home theater. While I consider putting a couple (Sonus Faber) subs into my system… I am enjoying the complete coherence across the audio spectrum. True, they only go to 28hz… but they sound fantastic.

Sealed for music. 

Ported for Home Theater.

@ghdprentice wrote:

Home theater is completely different… you want to rattle your windows. But for 2 channel audio it is really easy to do more damage than good and detailed discussions about sub woofer output bring up concerns of over use of subs.

Output and getting it right is really the least of it, I find. I agree many have their sub(s) dialed in too hot, because when they got subs they also want to hear them, and that's when it becomes a nuisance for any serious listening -  even with movie playback. Indeed, some home theaters have the subs dialed in ridiculously loud for effect, and to me it just becomes a load of huff and puffing mess that's all over the area. You don't hear that at most cinemas, I might add - at least here they got subs that don't sound as if they're trying that hard. 

Conversely there can also be the problem of a lack of proper LF-fullness, because a bass reproduction too conspicuous, colored, strained or otherwise will sometimes be negatively gained away so to hide its flaws. If on the other hand a sub sports low distortion (even at high SPL's), plenty of headroom and less of a distinctive mark you can dial back up the gain for more proper fullness and presence in the presentation. Maybe that's why with my previous, low eff. sealed subs that I had to add 4-5dB more gain with movie playback so to have proper impact, whereas with my current, higher efficiency subs I leave the gain where it is and being the same for both music and movies, and it's not for lack of impact and sheer visceral force with movies to be sure, nor the lack of a nuanced, natural and layered presentation with music. 

I currently have no subs in my main system, while there are two B&W 800 series subs in our home theater. While I consider putting a couple (Sonus Faber) subs into my system… I am enjoying the complete coherence across the audio spectrum. True, they only go to 28hz… but they sound fantastic.

Only 28Hz? Honest extension down to 28Hz is quite deep, and with added room gain they may more closely see into the low 20's. However, it's more about how those lower octaves are being reproduced than extension per se, and for that a pair of subs - properly implemented - may be a blessing to help augment this region more fully. Why not try out those B&W subs you already have, instead implemented with your main music rig, and see how that pans out? If nothing else to get a rudimentary bearing here.