mahgister: I’ve read some of your posts and see that you like to improve speakers. I just wanted to mention a couple of things that also make a big difference and are not very costly, just in case you haven’t already done so. By the way, I began building speaker enclosures, reconning, designing and building crossover networks in my mid-teens, over 40 years ago and also used to build the cabinets for the home line of speakers for the late engineer Dave Prophit. If you are not familiar with him, he patented the Bazooka speakers that used to go behind truck seats. He later sold the patent. I later pursued many other audio related endeavors. I got into speaker building because I could not afford what I wanted and my father thought that stereo equipment was a waste of money, so he wouldn’t buy me any, although he could very well afford it. he preferred to see me active in outdoor activities. His stereo system consisted of a YORX receiver, which I eventually burned up by trying to boost the wattage by cutting, stripping and connecting an extension cord to the speaker terminals-lol! If you are not familiar with YORX, they were about as crappy as you could buy, but sounded pretty trippy after the consumption of "certain chemicals"! When he came home from work he smelled "burned electronics" throughout the house and just laughed it off after I told him about my latest experiment. Bless his heart! I learned abou speakers by checking out books at the library and saving my allowance to buy speaker building books whenever a new edition came out at the local Radio Shack. This was before the internet existed. I continued with the "speaker building" hobby for years, until I finally got tired of it. It became a "been there done that thing". Now I prefer to just buy something already made, age has made lazier, and my finances are no longer what they used to be back then. Anyways, I am getting sidetracked here... If you haven’t already, try using self-adhesive sound dampening material and line all the interior of the speaker cabinet with it. The heavier/denser the material the better. The same stuff they use to line car interiors for sound dampening. If the drivers are stamped steel instead of cast, also cut small pieces of this material and stick it to thin areas of the frame of each driver. Also wrap the outer perimeter of the port/s. This will cut down the unwanted resonances dramatically and the difference will be very audible. You can also use heavier gauge wires between the crossovers and each driver, preferably oxygen free thinned fine pure copper stranded wire. Siver begins to get expensive, unless you make your own. I've made many. Silversmithing is another of my countless hobbies. You can also replace all of the capacitors and resistors with as good as you can afford, while keeping the same values. Same with the coils. You can even buy quality solid wire and wind your own coils instead of buying them premade. There are charts and formulas out there that will tell you what gauge of wire to use and how many turns around a specific diameter to achieve a specific value, but you will need to have test equipment to know the original value of the coils first, since these are usually not marked with their values. You can also brace the cabinet by gluing wooden dowels inside. To some this may sound like snake oil, but doing these simple and inexpensive modifications will make you a believer. There are other modifications that you can make, but getting rid of resonances is the most important! I thought about starting a new endeavor and starting a solid concrete speaker company, but life's short and there are too many other things I want to do with the rest of my time now that I am retiring.