Speaker Spikes - Working Principle


Vibration damping obvious makes sense (in speakers just as well as in cars). 

That involves 'killing' (converting into heat, through typically internal friction) kinetic energy. So any sort of elastic material (rubber has lots of internal friction) makes sense. 

And then there are spikes. Using a pointy hard object and pair it with a softer, elastic material (to deform, and kill kinetic energy) can work; think metal sharp spike into carpet or wood floor. 

But what is the idea behind pairing fairly unelastic metal (brass for example) with similarly unelastic (brass, stone, etc) material (example photo provided)? Only thing I can come up with: LOOKS good and makes owner feel good  thinking its an improvement (works only for Audiophiles though),

Even more curious: are they ENGINEERED "spikes" (vibration dampers or shock absorbers) for speakers that are TUNED for the frequency (and mass)  that needs to be dampened? Can piston style fluid dampers be designed for the high frequencies (100, 1000, 10000 Hz) using geometry, nozzles size and viscosity of the fluid?

 

kraftwerkturbo

The following is a Copy/Paste and very slightly edited Post made earlier this Month.

One method I overlooked to comment on and one that is well worth suggesting is the use of Spikes separating the speaker from a Suspension device. With the AT 616 Suspension Footers this is quite a easy configuration to put in place.

This Method used on a Floor Standing Speaker really pulled in the Lowest Bass Notes and the decay was the cleanest.

As I use Cabinet Speakers for listening to Blues Music, with the what to have the perception of Colour being added to the Sonic, this configuration was not my ideal, as it was a little too tidy for these purposes.

It might as a method an individuals ideal produced sonic.

I use my ESL Speakers for the most Transparent Experiences.  

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I am familiar with experiencing Townshend Sleds being used and the Companies Purpose Produced 'Weight Matched Plinths', there is no doubt there is a perceived improvement when these ancillaries are supporting certain Cabinet Design Speakers.

It was my introducing an individual to AT 616 Pneumatic Footers and the noticeable changes to the sonic, that encouraged the individual to investigate further suspended footers and in the end have the Townsend Weight Matched Plinths produced following the initial introduction to Townshend Products through using Sleds.

I myself can't agree that there is a Substantial difference to be found in the final produced sonic, between differing footers that offer a Suspension to a Cabinet Design Speaker.

At another time I loaned the AT 616 to my Local HiFi Group, they were used on a few different Speakers, Cabinet and ESL as well as under Valve Amps and TT's.

From the Group in attendance one followed by purchasing Gaia III Footers.

These have grown attraction as a result of the impressions being made and now most of the Group have Gaia III's in use under Speakers and in some cases Valve Amplification and a TT as well.

Again these are systems I listen to on a regular occasion and the ones that had the AT 616 in use don't seem to have produced much more than what the 616 could produce.

I am not suggesting the AT 616 is the most desirable product, I am merely pointing out that the addition of a Suspension Type Footer can have a noticeable improvement to the perceived sonic. How much one has to spend as an increased outlay to improve on a initial experience is an unknown to myself.

One other consideration that is worthy of investigation is not just the Footers but the Sub-plinth arrangement under Cabinet Speakers. 

My experiences have shown that any Floor Standing or Stand Mounted Cabinet Speaker, can have the perceived sonic substantially improved, when mounted on a Two Tier Sub-Plinth with decoupling between the Floor and Lower Plinth, between Plinths and Upper Plinth and Speaker.

After trying out many materials and thicknesses of these materials, the Sub-plinths I have found to offer a lot and at not too much expense is a combination of 50mm (2")Granite and a 40mm (1 1/2") Dense Chipboard (Kitchen Worktop)

Spike Decoupling works fine, swapping out the Spikes for suspension footers under the Cabinet will create extra attraction. 

 

kraftwerkturbo OP: Yes, tape would do the trick but elevating them with the spikes does improve the sound in my opinion.  They seem to breathe better.  I am not much into turntables anymore, in fact, I only have one turntable out that is not stored away, and it has been unplugged for "years" with a nice layer of dust on top!

@ditusa Thanks, that explains why spikes (or other rigid 'couplers') DON"T work. A suspected. The acrticle does NOT offer solutions to decouple.