Are there any issues with connecting speaker wire in this manner?


I'm considering purchasing some 14 awg solid core wire to use as speaker cable.  I will be doubling this up to make 11 awg speaker cable. My amplifiers, Red Dragon S-500, have binding posts which DO NOT have a hole drilled in the center of the shaft for inserting wire (they are hollowed out for banana plugs but that's not what I am referring to here nor do I need).  I'll be connecting the speaker wire without attachments, no spades, bananas, nor pins.  To get a good connection, it would be ideal if I could take the wire and, at the half way point, wrap it around the amplifier binding post, then run the two ends out to the speakers.  Will this work or will connecting the wire in this manner be problematic?  Do I need to cut the wire into 2 runs?  Thanks!

lcherepkai

benanders:  I haven't messed with amps at all.  They're still 100% stock except the fuses.  I did internally rewire my speakers with doubled runs of solid core 18 awg silver plated copper and some of the crossover parts were upgraded a few years back but the main wire is solid core copper.  Perhaps if this experiment goes well, I'll be replacing that wire as well.   And regarding your second paragraph, I hope I haven't come across as unappreciative.  I am grateful when folks are kind enough to share their knowledge and experience.  Truly.  

 

@OP. Regular solid copper wire sounds better than cheap stranded cables but in the overall scheme of things, it doesn't sound very good.

 

lcherepkai OP

272 posts

 
 

And regarding your second paragraph, I hope I haven't come across as unappreciative.  I am grateful when folks are kind enough to share their knowledge and experience.  Truly.

 

Not at all! I meant that if there is any real world difference between the wires (for sound), then readers will only know if you try to nix expectation bias from your evaluations. Which would be interesting.

I’m doubtful of much if any difference between wire like this because while I also perceived differences in wires, if I do it blindly I suddenly start failing at predicting anything better than what chance alone would accomplish. Our minds can be funny like that. Or maybe just mine… grin.

Without an unsighted (= predicting = expectation bias) approach (i.e., someone’s help changing wires while you don’t peek, to try to keep you honest with yourself 😉), you may well still hear differences, but whether they’re real and induced by chemical properties or just imaginary, they’ll only be meaningful to your setup. 
But, obviously, that’s a fair bit of trouble and if it’s not of interest to you, then who really cares, right? Cheap harmless experiments should be more fun than perfect, I suppose.

Either way, good info in this thread, hey!? 

If you can find high quality flexible (annealed?) copper then yes go for it. Solid wire does have some conductance advantages over stranded, but the lack of flexibility and the generally poor quality (re-cycled, repurposed) of industrial (ROMEX and MTW) would suggest not using building or machine tool, or distribution wire for audio. There are uses for flexible solid wire out there in the world. I purchased fine gauge silver instrument wire (my tonearm and cartridge lead supply) from a surplus dealer who in turn purchased from Gov't sources. In the pre internet days I was on his mailing list, and I think I remember seeing heavier single conductor wire. 11 gauge should not be needed for speakers. 12 gauge is overkill (the conductor operates most efficiently when sized correctly for the load). Unless exotic materials have superior numbers, inductance, capacitance, resistance, etc. stick with Silver, best condector by far, and copper, best compromise for cost performance and ease of fabrication. All mechanical connections with malleable wire can loosen over time.  Aluminum wire, no longer popular had a terrible reputation in older homes, some loans and insurance companies wouldn't approve Al wire

Keep track of your results, I for one would be interested in what you find.

Vintage Amps used bare wires, wrapped around a screw.

Note: there was a separate flat piece of metal, that made good pressure on the wire without twisting the wires when tightening.

Vintage McIntosh Speaker Terminals, the metal tab was spring loaded, pulled out, wrap your wire, tighten.

 

You could make some flat plates for your much larger binding posts, or simply cut off the crimp portion of connectors with holes for use.

 

doesn’t matter what they are made of, it is just a plate to hold your wire to the terminal without twisting

 

 

my home depot suggestion was just to see/try fastening two 14 awg solid core, get a feel of the combined thickness. Like I said, no matter what material you use, I would hammer them together, flat, and use a plate like above to prevent twisting. a whole lot less force on the binding posts