What qualities stand out in really good solid state preamps?
Recently I posted on the Herron HL-1, asking people what they thought, how it compared, etc. It's been sold and that's ok. The search continues.
But it raises a question I'd like to ask folks:
What attributes do you look for in a good solid state preamp?
Some qualities — quietness, durability, seem pretty obvious.
But what other criteria do you use to differentiate between solid state preamps?
How can they differ and what matters to you?
Please let me know!
P.S. As I've looked around, I've begun to learn more about some of the legendary preamps — made by companies such as Threshold, Ayre, Bryston, Pass, Apt-Holman, and others. It's good to have these names as references, but it would be even more useful if I knew what these brands conveyed, sonically. I've played with the idea of getting a newer Schiit preamp and then I wonder -- what if there's a "classic" preamp out there, used? What would it deliver that was worth searching for?
This back panel shows the versatility that Hafler Iris had, wish I knew about it way back when (1989).
Stereophile Review 1989, updated 2008. Hafler Iris, SS, all printed circuit board, is only 35 years old, my McIntosh mx110z, hand soldered Tubes, is only 58 years old. Refurbished, these things are hard to beat.
I keep yapping about the Chase RLC-1, this Hafler certainly adds remote control and more. |
I have kept a list of those I have owned over many years. It probably needs updating but here it is... Preamps I Have Owned
SMc Audio TLC SE (Signature Edition) (Formerly a McCormack TLC-1, which was upgraded by SMc Audio and is now a zero-gain, buffered preamplifier with Lundahl input transformers, a Shallco discrete volume control using Audio Note Tantalum resistors, and a choke power supply as used for the SMc VRE-1 preamplifier)(Update 2019: Disconnected volume control and replaced with two Audio Note Silver Tantalum resistors to create a unity-gain buffer for use with a stand-alone, remotely controlled, Khozmo volume control with display)
Hattor “The Big” Preamp (Passive/Active remote controlled preamp using Amtrans AMRG discrete resistor volume control/dual-mono with large display/options to operate passively, or actively through NewClassD op-amps with selectable 3/6/9 dB gain, very clear with great tone and dynamics, very close to the best preamps on this list at an amazingly high value to cost ratio) Lifechanger Audio Smart icOn 4Pro Passive Preamp (Autoformer, AVC, passive preamp/remote controlled, full function, with awesome display/full-sounding with nice tone and very good dynamics for a passive) Tom Evans Audio Design Vibe (Lithos 7) with Pulse II Power Supply (Amazingly real and right-sounding op-amp preamp with “Lithos” regulators, DACT attenuator and an outboard power supply, single-ended only, bare bones operation) Lamm Industries LL2 Deluxe (Tubed rectified/tubed output preamp with dual Alps volume controls really nice sound with the absence of balanced operation, remote, and display being the main reasons I still don’t own one)
GamuT D3i – good clarity and tone but slightly sterile/lacking body compared to the best NAT Symmetrical - quite good sounding but a bit tubey in the bass Acoustic Imagery Jay-Sho * - (Bent Audio Tap-X Autoformer Preamp) Good clarity and tone while slightly lacking drive compared to the best
MUSE Model Three Signature - Owned twice, good body and tone but IMO limited by chip volume control which leads to slightly electronic sound McCormack/SMc RLD-1 Platinum - Massive drive and good, but not great, tone and body Atmosphere MP3 (fully decked out with Caddock resistors and Teflon caps) – never grew to like the sound…a little too much pristine clarity for my tastes Goldpoint Passive – Excellent clarity when used with input impedance of 100K ohms+, but bested by the improved body and drive offered by really good active preamps Aesthetix Calypso – a little noisy and unrefined compared to the best VTL TL5.5 – not bad but not special CAT SL-1 Ultimate MkII (I see how some would like this but high gain made it sound forced to me) Sonic Frontiers Line 3 Signature Edition – a behemoth with many tubes Endler Attenuators (Passive resistor volume in-line control attaches direct to amps) Lector Zoe – fun to tube roll since it allows the use of several types of tubes, nice sounding, does no wrong but not as detailed or hard-hitting as others Ayre K-5xeMP – too clean and a little hi-fi sounding for my tastes
Adcom GFP750 – good for the money Joule Electra LA-150 MkII – never sounded better than average in my system Morrison Elad – Ok for secondary systems BAT VK51SE – thick sounding H2O Fire – unrefined Purity Audio Buffer - terrible * Auditioned in my system but did not purchase |
@hilde45 Thanks for the explanation of your gear. You seem to be searching not only for differences, but for value. Your Quicksilver and Pass amps are nice gear. I assume you’ve found the solid state preamps you’ve tried are more neutral than your tube preamp, with tighter bass, a lower noise floor and perhaps more extended highs. Those are just guesses based on my listening experience. As others have noted, if you haven’t already tried one, the Pass XP-12 should be a good match for your Pass amp. I would expect a pre-owned unit, however, to cost considerably more than an Ayre K-5. I hope you can audition more preamps and find one that stands out from the others. |
