Burn your power cables in PROPERLY with Haglabs Frycorder

Hello Agisthos,

Here is a person talking to you who really tried it out. I tell you how I bought it. A friend of mine camed to my place with a hijiri nagomi powercord. It was better than all my powercords so I decided to buy four of them from the same shop for my setup. When I got them I was really sad because they doesnt come close to the soundquality of my friends nagomi... :( I called the shop and told the shopowner that the cables maybe are fake! He promised me that they are for sure NO fake because he bought it from the distributor for germany. Then for my luck he remembered that he burnt my friends cable in for two days with a hagerman labs frycorder 2. Then he sended me his frycorder to burn then in by myself. And in the end it was the same soundquality. No it was even better because I burned one cable in for two weeks. This was the bestsounding cable. Then I wanted to buy the frycorder from the shop but he told me he won't sell it because its his own exemplar. Then I ordered one from haglabs webpage. Since then all my powercords have minimum of two weeks burn in and the frycorder works all the day. When I don't listen to a unit of my setup the powercord sticks in the frycorder. ;) Now I am interested in the snakeoil and electricitystudent comments from people which never try - just pray their useless non-fact-based opinion. :) Sorry for my bad english but I am from Bavaria/Germany. 

Kind regards from lake Tegernsee, Andreas

@andili That's interesting to hear because I was wondering what is really going on - is it the burning in of the main line that gives all the benefits? or does putting hours on each individual power cable have an effect?

According to your experience the later. I am doing 48 hours on each line so by this weekend will have the whole system done and can do a proper listen.

True there is a lot of snakeoil and useless products in this industry, but this one does something that is immediately obvious. And its so cheap at $189, that's a drop in the bucket - I have other tweaks that do far less for far more.

I buy so much stuff I don't need and why should I stop now. I'll take a few and give them away as gifts if I don't like them.

I'm still evaluating my grounding box with very expensive connecting wires.

I'm also evaluating some liquid material I put at the end of my cables.

also Evaluating those rubber things you put on tubes.

Also Evaluating vibration pads specially designed to be put on other vibration pads. 

And also evaluating Cable lifters.

Everything works amazing and I am so happy when I see more stuff like this I can buy

@agisthos Thank you for the kind words and testimonial. Cable break-in is one of those things you just need to try for yourself. Easy to do, and I offer a 30-day trial period, so you can return device if it does nothing for you.

From what I’ve deduced over the past 25 years, break-in is not about how much voltage, current, or power you can shove through a wire. If it were, power cords would break themselves in, right? Sorry Refrigerator Guy.

No, I believe it is all about the electrical and magnetic fields generated within the dielectric (insulation between conductors). Think of a cable as a capacitor. You break them in by doing essentially the same thing, exercising the fields, as much as you possibly can. That’s what the original FryKleaner did (generation prior to FryBaby), producing a signal equal to playing a hundred songs at the same time, basically white noise, while also modulating that signal in amplitude for more low frequency content. It also swept that modulation in time such that there was no constant steady-state information. The result sounds a bit like a vintage steam train speeding up and slowing down.

But that’s not all there is to it! We already know large voltage and current do not do the trick, so what is it? I believe it is not the amplitude of the fields that are doing most of the work, but rather how fast these fields are changing in time. That is, frequency. The secret to break-in is high frequency, operating well above the audio band. This is also why I think USB and CAT5 cables tend to break themselves in.

Think of RIAA correction for a minute. It was an attempt to de-emphasize the 6dB per decade slope characteristic of the generator (cartridge), where output voltage (or current) is proportional to velocity. This is exactly what I think is going on with burn-in. It’s all about the rate of change of fields (velocity). So for example, a power cord at 120V and 60Hz (and I don’t care how many amps) does not do much to break-in that cord. Not even thousands of hours. Let’s double that frequency seven times over (2^7 = 128), or roughly 7.7kHz. To me, a 1V signal at 7.7kHz has similar burn-in capability as does the original 120V at 60Hz. If we doubled frequency twelve times (4096 * 60 = 246kHz), we have 32 times more oomph (2^5). This is exactly what my FryCorder can do (FryBaby goes up to 500kHz). You cannot do that with a refrigerator. Fast changing electric and magnetic fields are what work the dielectric, breaking it in faster than music itself.

This is nonsense, and we need to stop perpetuating it.