Ordered the miniDSP HD from Amazon for sub management only. Arrives tomorrow. Thank you.
miniDSP SHD integration
Ever since I migrated from AVR preamp out with room correction to a separate preamp, I have been missing room correction, especially bass management. I have considered the SHD, but wanted to avoid the ADA, and the potential quality of the DAC built into the SHD. I recently plugged my turntable back into my AVR, and the bass management room correction was significant, ergo my renewed interest. My system:
Pro-ject 1Xpression carbon classic with Hana ML cart
Rega Aria phono stage
Rogue RP-1 pre with NOS Telefunkon medical, Siemens nickel plate & Brimar CV4003 NOS tubes (rolling)
LSA Warp 1 amp
KEF R11 speakers
Rythmic F12SE sub
Aurender N150 streamer
Chord Qutest DAC
My question is how do best integrate the SHD (or other/better) room correction device into my system. My ideal is to continue to use both my preamp and DAC. So, in the case of streaming: N150 >SHD>Qutest>Preamp>Amp>Speakers
Vinyl: TT>Aria>SHD>Qutest>Preamp
This would avoid the SHD internal DAC, but how would it do bass management? In this scenario, I believe the sub would need to be plugged into the preamp for volume control. Perhaps this is true for any scenario when a separate preamp is used?
Does the SHD/Dirac have the ability to perform bass management without using the SHD crossovers? IE: Full range to both speakers & sub with the appropriate adjustments? Any other products you would recommend? Any other recommended connections?
Thanks!
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Great! Good luck. Forgot to mention that you can build effective high pass filters for your amp with screw down RCA terminals, a little wire and some caps. I suggest Cornell Dubilier for your starter film caps. Then if you like the high pass performance/speaker integration move up to some nice copper films from Parts Connexion. |
Lately I have seen you mentioning plugging ports on the mains to help with bass control. Obviously you must be on the camp of those who don't think the speakers can be hurt by plugging the ports. Can you elaborate on that and how you actually plug them. Socks, straws, part or whole? Sorry for hijacking the thread. |
Hey @baylinor - You can’t hurt speakers by plugging ports, but you are changing their behavior. The behavior when plugging any ported speaker is going to be rather similar. You raise the -3 dB point, but also dampen the response. That is, if there’s a peak at the low end, the peak will be reduced. This behavior may be beneficial in some cases. Some speaker makers go so far as to include foam plug for this reason. For instance, bookshelf speakers which you might want to put all the way up to a wall. From an academic, absolutist perspective, plugging a port is not the same as making an ideal sealed speaker. Generally, sealed cabinets should be somewhat smaller than their ported counterparts, so if this was an engineering exercise you'd build 2 different cabinets, one for sealed and one for ported use, but from a pragmatic approach, several speaker designers and my own experience shows this approach can be useful if you have too much bass or are integrating speakers with a subwoofer. It will also reduce cone excursion and distortion, an especially valuable feature if adding a sub without a high-pass filter. The only way to know if this is right for you is to try it. I’ve had one A’goner report their bass was best with 1 of the 2 speakers plugged. I imagine this achieved a half-way setting between the two options. You can actually improve reliability because having a sealed cabinet reduces the amount of motion the driver makes below the port frequency. Below resonance, the port is basically just a great big hole. That is, the springiness of the air in the cabinet which helps to control the woofer motion vanishes. The cabinet might as well not even be there. The THX standard for satellite speakers was to use sealed cabinets, because when combined with high pass filters the combined response would match subwoofers ideally. This is not as good a solution as the THX specs, but it shows that when adding a sub this approach can be useful. I recommend virgin alpaca socks... :) Definitely not anything crunchy. Nice clean socks wadded up tightly which you can still pull out works just fine. You also don’t have to fully pack the port, just seal the ends, so if you have a very deep port, say 6" long, you don’t have to stuff the whole thing. Just a tight sock on the opening to prevent air from moving in and out of the cabinet is fine.
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- 17 posts total