Woodworkers ?

Try a product called Color Putty. They make colors to match most woods. It never really hardens so if you don't like it you can wipe it off with a little elbow grease. You can mix colors togeather to get a perfect match.

Prfont I would certainly take more stock in what a professional restorer offers. I am a hobbyist although I have extensive and many years experience in such matters but in reality my advice isn't for novices. Listen to the expert.

It's great to see that we have serious hobbyists like Tubegroover and JK keeping ancient woodworking skills alive.Some of the juried shows I've attended and judged have had beautiful, original pieces by accountants, lawyers and plumbers. And we've all seen the DIY Utopias built with hand tools in a basement.
The fact is, however, that the skills are ancient and many of the "truths" of today's hobbyists are not in tune with the practices that begin with the Egyptians of the Fourth Dynasty (they invented frame and panel construction)up through the Moors of Spain and to the modern with Sheraton, Chippendale and Hepplewhite.It's like tube design: lot's of variations but all still basically the Williamson amplifier.
As far as finishing and restoration goes, like doctors, conservators try to "do no harm". That means choosing finishes that can be restored (no polyurethane, please)and never disturbing the effects of aging upon the wood.
Audio speakers are a kind of architectural furniture and should be treated with the same care as fine furniture. There would be no reason to strip a complete cabinet to repair a few scratches no matter how deep. Wood develops a patina from exposure to the environment and refinishing should always be done with an eye toward maintaining that. In any case, it's comparatively easy for a craftsman to make an invisible repair to a scratch.
All the products mentioned, including briwax will damage the finish. The Lemon oils, English Leather (?), Pledge, Liquid Gold etc. contain either silicones or alcohol or both and will eventually break down the ability of the finish to maintain it's film. Briwax is a fine wax but the instructions maintain application with fine steel wool which, in the hands of novices, will spread the damaged area by changing the tone of the finish.
In regard to planeing versus sandpaper, there is no controversy. Planing is for smoothing and sandpaper is for leveling the planed surface and opening the pores closed by the plane. Two different functions. If the piece is not much subject to wear, beautiful results can be obtained by waxing or applying lacquer directly to the planed wood. Keep in mind that planing and scraping burnishes the wood and does not allow proper penetration of oil based finishes. When using varnish, linseed or tung oil, the surface must be lightly sanded prior to application. Two part catalysed lacquers will also have difficulty adhering to a burnished surface.
I suppose I've gone too far with all this explanation but I hope it will be useful to speaker builders and scratch repairers. For the scratches, however, taking the speaker to a competent shop will cost no more than a set of NOS tubes. I would be pleased to answer anyone's e-mail questions in regard to finishing, veneering and restoration. You wouldn't believe how beautiful a grungy old speaker cabinet can be made with $10 worth of Naptha and Johnson's Paste Wax. Tune in next week.

I am a woodworker with many years exp in furniture and cabinet building and finishing. I have built most of my wooden furniture at home and for others. I have built and matched finishes of new cabinets to match existing cabinets. I am not the final authority but I can tell you that you had better leave the planes, scrapers,sandpasper, steel wool and any other abrasive alone. There is no way you can get the scratches out without refinishing the side where the scratch is. Therefore your alternative is to hide the scratch as best as possible. You said they were hairline scratches. It has already been said, that you can use Old English furniture polish. This is correct. Old English has stain in it and that is what hides the scratch. Another alternative which i like better is to get some matching stain and use it. Don't worry about getting it on the finish of the cabinet. There should be a clearcoat of some kind (probably oil) which will keep the stain from penetrating any area except the scratched area. Just wipe it on and wipe it off. Let it dry. Repeat until you get the right color. Remember you can make it darker but you can't make it lighter. You should have no trouble at all. Depending on how dark your cabinet is the scratch will probably cover first coat. remember perfection is not possible at this point. We are trying to camaflage the scratch. Best of luck to you.

It might be wise to use a Q-tip for application of the stain and try to get as little as possible outside of the scratch area. Use Minwax stain. It has less pigment than something like Zar