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New Dedicated 20A Circuit Wiring Questions

Hello All-

Sorry for the length but I spent allot of time trying to make this as clear as possible and straight forward with all info I felt relevant.

I had a low grade buzz/hum in my current system, had to upgrade home power service to 200A and ran a dedicated line to the stereo while at it. The house also has a home surge protector on incoming power now.

Overall Thoughts on Wiring (with time to make changes if necessary)

   I have 12/2 solid Romex with Hubbell PVC 1-gang box and Hubbell extra HD hospital, isolated ground #IG8300R outlet. To this red/orange outlet, the ZeroSurg with a duplex outlet is plugged in (using the ZeroSurg equipped power line).

   Into 1 of the outlets of the ZeroSurg is plugged a new AntiCables level 3 power cord. This power cord then feeds into a Lowell Mfg 12” 15A (w/breaker) 7 outlet power strip. The power strip then supplies the stereo needs. Of Note here are a number of Anticable L3 power cord reviews that documented owners who experienced a decrease in noise (out the speakers) with use. Yes, that influenced me, wouldn’t that be a nice benefit.

   The pathway noted in above paragraph was recommended to me by Paul (owner) from AntiCables. Paul also recommended plugging all my stereo components into the power strip that now serves the 20A dedicated line.

   Curious about any recommendations to better this with additional info supplied below. Due to reading on this forum and others I have questions concerning noise from ground loop and/or RFI, EM which I want to keep in check.

Some facts about my vintage system to keep in mind:

   1) I’m thinking the cleanest AC will be that which has passed through the ZeroSurge, then through the Anticable power line and offered in the power strip to the stereo?

   2) Not to forget, there is one extra outlet left open on the Hubble duplex 20A outlet of the dedicated line after the Zerosurg was plugged into it. There is also 1 outlet available on the duplex outlet of the Zerosurg after the other was taken by the Anticable L3 power cord supplying the power strip. Of course the available extra Zerosurge outlet is Zerosurg protected where-as the extra Hubble outlet is only protected by the Home surge protector.

   3) My Yamaha C-85 Control Amplifier (Pre) has 6 AC outlets available on its rear panel, 5 switched and 1 unswitched. My Yamaha M-65 Class A Power Amplifier has 1 available unswitched AC outlet.

Things I’ve read of concern, and should I alter Paul’s wiring recommendation?

   A) I have the SOTA Total Eclipse Package on my VPI Prime Turntable. The prime power is now delivered through the “Condor PSU” - Wall Wart; 24VDC  500mA and the “Road Runner Tachometer (RR)” - Wall Wart; 9VDC  300mA.

   B) I also have a Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus, also a Wall Wart; 12VDC 200mA. Digital; my Pioneer Multi-Play CD, PD-M700.

   Concern is 3 Wall Warts and a digital CD player. Simply put, I’ve read that these components by some audiophiles are dealt with independently of the analog direct 20A line. Seems the consensus is “wall warts” and “digital” are additional unwanted noise to the line (question here is a DAC digital?). Conundrum, 2 of those wall warts are my Prime! I have to have my turntable on the dedicated line don’t I? I don’t want to run 2,3,4-6 dedicated 20A lines, my system is far from that deserving.

   So, to be complete; I have a Audiocontrol Octave Equalizer & Spectrum Analyzer which probably could be plugged into the power strip, Pre amp, or Power amp. Any preference that any of my components be plugged into the PreAmp/Amp components vs the power strip? I also have a VCR and Blu-Ray which I have plugged into a separate circuit on the wall, I have 4 more outlets of that non dedicated house circuit open.

   In summary, if using Paul’s recommendation (all stereo components plug into Power strip). I would have 3 wall warts (including the 1- Dac and 2- TT), a digital CD player, Power Amp, Pre Amp (or plug Pre into available Amp outlet?), and EQ all on the dedicated line. Should “wall warts” or certain ones go to the wall outlets? Are there any benefits to plug a component into extra outlets on rear of Pre-amp vs into the power strip?

Dedicated isolated ground

   I have read that a good method to wire ground wires was by using a “star” shaped ground bar but never found any online. So, I have a 4” length brass bar with 10 screws for securing ground wires and all my stereo components metal chassis ground wires run to it. Some components have thumb screws to attach your wires & others came with wire attached, all different sizes, strand or solid. I used what was given and also used sometimes size 14 copper. For no apparent reason I attached chassis grounds to the bar from both ends toward the middle, both ends equally ascending in size from small stranded to larger sizes toward the middle. Therefore, the center wire on the bar was the “main ground wire” & largest size (12) that will run directly to the Hubbell duplex outlet green grounding screw that also secures the 12/2 ground wire of the dedicated 20A line.

   There are no other grounds run to that dedicated line except the “main ground line” from the brass bar. The 12/2 Romex is not encased by conduit, the Hubbell outlet is within a PVC single gang box. At the 200A service box the dedicated ground attaches closest to the incoming main house ground serving the house panel and other end at outlet as described.

   If looking at my ground bar (from LT to RT) the components order (determined only by size & luck of the draw) resulted as follows: EQ  CD  Sota-Motor  VPI-Main-Bearing  MainGND-Line  PreAmp+Amp  Condor+RR  DAC  TruSweep. The MainGND-Line size 12 runs to Hubbell green GND screw.

   Note: the PreAmp+Amp as well as the Condor+RR, both sets of grounds, were daisy chained in line, containing the 2 component chassis grounds as indicated(+) & secured to ground bar on 1 screw each as all others.

   Any problems with this grounding scheme?

Thanks for any comments, suggestions-

Robes

128x128robes
erik_squires
15,801 posts
 

Here are my thoughts:

You have 2 options IMHO to wall warts:

  1. Buy low noise supplies from iFi or linear equivalents
  2. Keep them outside your cleanest most sterile zone.

It’s worth getting a small Furman strip with SMP and LiFT just for the wall warts.

I should point out that besides using series mode design, and additional linear filtering the Wired tests show Furman wiht SMP has among the lowest clamping voltages of any surge protected system, including Zerosurge. That and the usual useful features are why I think this is often a better deal. Furman makes many many products so if you are looking for reduced noise and excellent surge protection make sure it has SMP and LiFT.

A much bigger contributor to noise however is often a laptop or PC power supply, which should be kept outside the clean zone and USB and audio signals should be galvanically isolated. Many DAC’s use isolated USB inputs already but not all of them do.

audioman58's avatar
audioman58
3,878 posts
 

I have been using a 4 wire awg 10 Copper wire  Cryo treated.

in a 4 wire setup  the breaker is silver coated copper from Siemens Germany 

I tried to get industrial warehouses only ifyou can still find them they don’t oxydize like copper. there are 2 grounds ,one common , the other a insulated isolated ground ,going to its own mini muz bar then grounded to completely isolate from anything else ,which a common ground does. Go toVH audio he sells line ,surge power correction devices under $1k you hook directly to that dedicated circuit 

to better your circuit still.

mijostyn's avatar
mijostyn
8,223 posts
 

You have a whole house surge protector, the Zerosurg is an unnecessary road block. You already have a "star" grounding situation at the power strip. The problems come when the signal wires pass ground from one piece of equipment to another, so you can "float" the ground to any piece that hums. Amplifiers draw the most power and it is useful for them to have their own line. You may have to float the ground to the amp as it usually will get grounded by the preamp. You can check continuity with a meter. It all depends. If you do not have a hum you are all set. If you do you systematically float grounds until it stops. Good Luck!

pindac's avatar
pindac
2,449 posts
 

As said, I am to build a Structure dedicated to Audio and Home Entertainment and add Electric Power to it, where the Audio Power Supply is to be considered. 

The initial power feed is already in place, as it a spur coming from the Homes Electric Fuse Board, terminated near the site for the outside of the home room.

I have much of the Structural materials for the room already owned. . 

I am taking advise on the Electrics Design for my audio purposes, other Electicl needs will be done under approved code. 

The structure being separate to the home allows for a different design, produced to code, but not typically seen in a home. 

Hard Wiring to a Device and into a German Produced Wago Connection is one such proposal from a friend,. As a method I get Solid Copper Terminations at a very fair price. 

I can also buy the same PC Triple C Wire Gauge Furutech use in their Cables. 

Such Wire Can be used from Device to Wago > Wago to Distribution Board. 

In terms of Safety, I can't foresee any support at hand encouraging elimination of a  13A fuse somewhere in the supply or at any place the design for the devices has a 13A fuse. The 13A fuse seems mandatory? 

I even have a Substantial Isolation Transformer that can also be tried out. It is owned for many years and has never been used

When it comes to Electricity, I have been as cautious as I know how to be. I do like professionals to have the major control over what is best, as safety is vital. 

erik_squires
15,801 posts
 

You have a whole house surge protector, the Zerosurg is an unnecessary road block

 

WHSPs are designed to protect things which normally can’t be surge protected. This includes:

  • House wiring, which can start an in-wall fire
  • Fire alarms
  • Major appliances
  • GFCI receptacles
  • Automated switches and outlets

Two reasons why you would add surge strips for sensitive devices is length from surge protector and clamping voltage. For safety and reliability reasons WHSP’s often have a relatively high clamping voltage, around 600-700 V / leg. Furman with SMP and Zerosurge have significantly lower clamping voltages and no activation time, around 200V or less.

Additional power protection offered by both is long term over voltage and under voltage shut-off. Situations when a typical MOV wouldn’t even trip but could still be damaging. For instance, if the V was ~145.  Outside of equipment spec but also too low to trip the surge devices.

I find that readers are often biased about this based on where they live. If you live in areas prone to lightning storms you feel much more strongly about additional surge protection because of experience. Personally I’ve lost a laptop during a thunderstorm that I forgot was plugged directly into the wall, despite having a Siemens panel and whole house protector installed. OTOH, none of my sensitive equipment or ~ dozen wifi enabled switches were damaged.

For me, knowing that surge damage, even from a small surge, is additive AND never wanting to pack up my amp for repair is enough. :)

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