Great i have some big amps and can only run 2 mono off a 20 amp line.great discussion .I'm a fan of big 10 aug 20 amp lines.the more the better. Math power is amps x volts. In general ee are smart this is what he does. Enjoy the music
15 amp circuit VS. 20 amp Circuit
Hello,
I’m in a situation where my audio room has one ( three outlets ) 15 amp circuit. It appears to me that the 3 outlets in this room are connected in series , meaning drawing current from one outlet will drain the other two .
For 2 channel audio , I have connected my C12000 pre amp, McD12000 and through MPC1500 conditioner and to one of the 15 amp outlets . This should be okay? However, problem could arise once I connect the McIntosh 1.2k power AMPs to the other 2 outlets.
I would like to know if I need any dedicated circuit for my equipment . It appears I need more power than 1400 watts ( 15 amp circuit can provide ) when I use my home theater Where I will have Four 1000 watt woofers and 3 additional AHB2 amps.
Question :
howmany dedicated 15 amp or 20 amp circuits do I need to ensure smooth power without dimming the lights around the house / prevent possible fire ?
Please provide your suggestion based on the below equipment .
DAC: McIntosh MCD12000
Power Conditioner: MPC15000
preamp : McIntosh C12000
AV Processor : Marantz 7015
power AMP: Two McIntosh 1.2k
power AMP: Three AHB2 , one used in MonoBlock
Streamer : One Streamer
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- 70 posts total
The outlets are not wired in "series" they are wired in "parallel"; series wiring is the old Christmas light string that goes dark when any bulb fails.. Let us assume you have 120 Volt available, and that the breaker and outlets are in good condition, you would need a load of 1,800 watts to reach the breaker's tripping point. These are rough off the top of my head calculations, AC is weird when it comes to Ohm's Law. 1.800 watts would be a very brightly lit room if illuminated by 100 watt bulbs at circuit capacity. The purposed of a circuit breaker is protection, both load, or appliance, and the distribution system, or wiring. By protecting these two aspects, the structure is protected. If you are tripping your 15 amp- Circuit Breaker it might be that the breaker has aged (and they do age), connections have loosened (like with aluminum wire instead of copper), or maybe some corrosion has occurred at the connections. I would not arbitrarily increase the amperage of a circuit breaker. The danger would be removing the "fuse" function from the breaker, and actually making the wiring the default "fuse", which can produce dire results. When your house was built the maximum electric loads would have been a table lamp, a clock radio, a vacuum cleaner, maybe a TV. Fortunately there are some easy and inexpensive solutions to this perceived problem. First replace the old, probably aged and poorly preforming Circuit Breaker with a new quality unit that is compatible with the panel. Then replace the outlets with quality units. I wouldn't worry about an orange or red outlet as much as I would be concerned with dissimilar metals at the connections. And, for goodness-sake use the screw terminals not the stab in connections on the outlets. At this point spending money on expensive AC cables (even if said cables are tre chic) could be better spent on the record collection. If you have the disposable income to rewire and replace the service entrance and panel for the house, or just one room,.. good for you. This is NOT a DIY job, and you should have an engineer or Master Electrician involved, be clear about what you want, and obtain the proper permits. The National Electrical Code (NEC) is all about FIRE PREVENTION, really, no kidding. |
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@jea48 That's the best advice I have read on this thread. |
- 70 posts total