What is the science behind audiophile fuses?


There were many threads on the topic of "audiophile fuses" on this forum, and I sure don't want to open old wounds and trench warfare. The fuse on my preamp blew suddenly two days ago, which prompted me to search for a replacement. That's when I came across the term "audiophile fuse" and the fact that they demand far-out prices. Deeper curiosity brought me to several other fora, where users posted glowing praises about their Zero fuses and other exotica. Now I am a scientist, but not a physicist or electrical engineer: so please enlighten me! How can a fuse have an audible influence on the signal, when the signal does not even pass through it? How can a fuse be "directional" when it deals with alternate current? I mean, if I recall my university physics, a fuse is basically a safety valve and nothing more. Am I completely missing an important point here? My scientific field is drug discovery, and because of this background I am thoroughly familiar with the power and reality of the placebo effect. I that's what I am seeing here, or is it real physics? I need objective facts and not opinions, please. I really appreciate your help!

 
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I would have used the 30A fuse in conjunction with the 10A magnetic breakers I just received and am working on installing.  Instead, I ordered 1/4 inch solid copper rod today, that I will cut in 7/8 inch lengths to replace my fuses for when I get the breakers installed.

Instead of using slugs and existing holders, why nor simply bypass the fuse altogether using a soldered link etc?

@mitch2  can you share what make and model magnetic breaker you are using?  thanks.

Of course, an audiophile fuse is not just a "straight wire." It's a straight wire within a sheath. I have to wonder if it is that interaction - wire in a very unusual sheath - that is involved in the sound results. Just for starters the fuse wire, which is very close to the component power plug junction, is probably being shielded from EMR effects.

@carlsbad2 - I can’t for two reasons.

First, the manufacturer and model are being held close to the vest by SMc. They apparently tried more than a few before finding the one they believed sounded best with their equipment.

Second, in addition to their request for confidentiality, there are no manufacturer’s markings of any kind on the two breakers they sent to me. There is a T10A sticker that appears to be something the SMc folks use to label their stock and a "QC passed" sticker and that is it.

What I can show you is that the breakers look very similar to this, but they were much more expensive to me than the Amazon price indicated in the link. I had to give the installation some thought before deciding how to configure them, and I am now very close to doing the work (hopefully this weekend).