Vintage Japanese DD Consult and Suggestions Please


A little over five years ago, I worked with Chris Harban at Woodsong Audio to craft a bespoke Garrard 301 for me and my my vinyl collection. I had previously had a Dual of some model followed by a Thorens TD 160 with a nice Ortofon Black MM cart. The 301 was completely restored featuring a heavy mahogany plinth, Ortofon AS 309S tonearm, and Ortofon SPU head. I have completely blown away with how this table has sounded and looked. The sound was huge, rich, and detailed...everything that I heard that idle drives from this era should sound.

Unfortunately, some family health matters have forced me to liquidate some much revered audio gear, and recently placed my Garrard 301 up for sale. I do not wish to be without a way to continue to enjoy my collection and would somehow like to come as close to the performance of the 301 for around $2500 or so. 

My considerations (thus far)for this change are as follows,

Denon DP80

Technics SP10 Mk 2 or 3

Technics SL 1000 Mk 2

Luxman PD 444

As you can see, I am curious about the more vintage looks and sound of the direct drives coming out of Japan, and am hoping to glean from this audience which of these units may provide me with the same (or as close to)level of enjoyment that my 301 has done. Thoughts on tonearm and MC cartridges pairings with each would be helpful.

I am not really considering anything belt driven at this time for whatever reason, or a deck that veers away from a traditional turntable aesthetic.

If it helps, the rest of the signal chain is as follows.

Aric Audio Motherlode preamp

Manley Steelhead phono pre

Aric Audio Transcend EL 34 push/pull amp

Klipsch Forte iv speakers.

 

I am grateful in advance for your thoughts on this matter.

 

 

laaudionut

I agree that the DK300 plinth is holding back the DP80 a bit. I use a custom made slate plinth. But the nicest plinth on the professional level is the PBN Audio version. It ain’t cheap however. What one could do with the DK300 is to brace it along the bottom with heavy pieces of aluminum and replace the armboard by all means with something stiffer and with more mass. Here is the PBN Audio plinth.

I happen to have a Triplanar mounted on my DP80 but I would not short change the DV505, which is one of two tonearms mounted on my Lenco.

Ba know I. The day I had my choice of Technics or JVC tables and settled on the JVC QL-7. Hands down better tonearm, better motor technology. Also better looking. A Denon DP-80 seemed kina spendy, and there was no dealer within 300 miles. Lots of miles and turntables later, I've got a VPI Prime Scout. It's the only one I thought was the equal of that JVC. I'd buy another in heartbeat if I found one. The biggest difference was in the tonearms. The JVC was simply better in no small part because it was significantly longer and more adjustable. Rumor it was the table used to develop the Shibata stylus whose thin profile made it subject to 'chattering ' on inner groves from tracing error when mounted in the standard 9" (229 mm) tonearm. That geometry was true then, true today. 

PbN built DP-80 motors / incredible plinths for Lyra… as in Lyra Japan. Those are formidable.. I would say before i upgraded my Triplaner to the CF armwand , etc, especially silver wire the 505 was in many ways the equal… nits… 

Armboard with epoxy/bentonite will be too damped.. Frank Kuzma told me that even polycarnonate amboard would suck out LF from his arms.  You can try epoxy/steel balls mixture which would be easier to work with and you should be able to increase loading as balls have much lower surface area than bentonite.

I used polyester epoxy with 1% catalyst and 60/40 bentonite/epoxy  ratio. To get an optimal ratio you should cast small samples and watch for shrinkage, carcks and curing. Once you find  the otimal range it is very easy to cast. 

What do you use on your Technics? Ulike other Denon plinths Dk300 is made from engineerd wood and it is quite stiif. I've tryed to make an armboard  out of Al as that time I had only table saw and it did not make much difference to my ears. Carbon steel or bronze would be probably better options.

"why not buy a new Technics or comparable unit” ..because of x2/x3/x4 price vs well performing/built vintage? Also, some fellow audiophiles want to spend some time building systems, aka hobby.