I’m considering upgrading my speakers internal wiring

Manufacturer voicing is simply another take on sonic presentation, it may or may not correlate with your own preferences. This where you need to ask yourself what is missing or wrong with speakers in stock configuration. If you can't define what it is your looking for you're shooting in the dark.

As for expectations of the highest quality components based on price of speakers. Don't assume anything, have a look at those crossovers, if you've done your research you'll know quality. And don't expect the manufacturer to acknowledge they could have done better with design or parts used. They see you simply as end user, questioning them about such things will likely be perceived as criticism, you think they like that?  The above based on my experience with contacting any number of manufacturers with various ideas of mine. You may perceive it as being helpful in making their product better, they don't know you from Adam, you're not part of design team. In the one case where manufacturer adopted my parts mod, while somewhat irritated with me, the manufacturer did seem curious in regard to the specific capacitors I was using.

Bottom line, you own your equipment, you can modify to your heart's content as long as its for your personal enjoyment. Manufacturer's choice of parts used and/or voicing is not necessarily some kind of objective best, there may be some untapped potential they failed to uncover. 

@mapman Considering the amount of posts you post, your comment of - 'If you want to do it do it', is,,,, useless and unhelpful.

I took the time to look at your speaker’s crossover online and the builder makes both access and visibility of parts very easy! He did a very nice job on the design and cabinet. The parts quality changed over time with this speaker as can be seen in photos. Some images show only sand cast resistors used throughout while other images show sand cast resistors only on the low pass portion of the crossover. Some pics show the use of Clarity PX caps and other pics show the better CSA. Not sure what set you have. The Clarity CSA caps are certainly good and better than what I see in most $15,000-$20,000 speakers I have opened up. This gives us some insight into the quality level of the parts he used. Peter used air core inductors throughout including woofers. This is an indication he is both aware and takes into account parts quality. However, all the cast resistors and Dayton caps on the low pass are a place he definitely saved money. Overall crossover parts quality is a mix of good and mediocre to be honest.  Peter obviously saved money on the low pass portion except for the inductor. 

I would certainly email him your serial number and ask him about the internal wire. Ask him about gauge especially on the woofers. Gauge is important on the woofers. I bet he shares the information with you as he does not seem concerned with hiding parts based on the design. I bet he simply used Mil Spec silver over copper wire based on what we see for parts quality. If he did, then know this kind of wire does have a sound personality. It can be described as pushing forward the upper mids and highs. All bulk hook up wire has a sound personality based on the design and materials used. You need to know what “change/improvement” you desire in the sound of your speaker. Looking for more warmth and body? Smoother highs? More fleshed out mids? More resolution? What are you desiring more and less of? Without knowing this you are lost and the end result may prove to be negative.

Lastly, are you experienced with this sort of soldering and DIY work? You could easily damage drivers without proper soldering tools and technique. Are you confident you can reassemble without damage or mistakes which could prove costly and a great big hassle. Getting inside and doing this kind of work is not for the faint of heart or unexperienced. It is a lot of work with attention to the details vital. Yes, internal wire quality does matter and can definitely impact the sound! The bigger questions are: What’s already in there? What is your end goal? Are you skilled at this?

@bobbyloans If it ain't broke don't fix it.......unless you are an audiophile...you know you want to noodle around. Why not. @waytoomuchstuff makes excellent points in the how to department. But before you get to your workbench is your room treated?

Second guessing oneself is par for the course. You may also need to see the voodoo priest Xanthos Terwilliker to cast a spell eliminating confirmation bias of your hometown pride in your modifications.

IMHO, internal wiring does not do all the much, that being said, I have never used any exotic wire, just OFC copper. Unless I'm putting in a new XO, usually just keep the OEM wire.

Also from experience, take a picture of all the connectors before you remove any of them. If any of the terminals are not marked +/- mark them before removing anything!!!!! Nothing is worse than spending hours swapping parts out, only to have something out of phase. It will never sound good, and you will curse yourself chasing it down. Woofers are usually easy, mids/highs can be tough to tell phase. 

Crossovers will yield huge benefits! However, it will also cost a lot to do correctly. Spending $20 on a single resistor, or over $100 on one cap. Just know, for a 3 way, simple XO it can be $500 in parts.

Don't forget the binding post, this is another area where most manufactures cut corners. Even speakers that cost $10k can have $10 binding post in them. Take a magnet to them, if it sticks, you want new post.