AC Power

OK, my decision has been made. I am sold on the AR features. I will purchase the Furman P 2400 AR vs the 1800 for the following reasons:

1. Both have the AR features 

2. It will be compatible with both 15A short term & 20A long term 

3. The spacing of the rear outlets should allow large audiophile plugs 

4. The captive (why captive?) PC is 12GA vs 14GA for the 1800

5. It is larger & may be more robust 

5. Only $300 more on Amazon

I will install it vertically behind my long rack. That will allow me to use my existing PC’s & provide good spacing between my components and it. 

I will order it this afternoon after I return from golf. Please let me know if you see any issues with my logic. 

Thank you all for your outstanding recommendations! Great thread. I learned a lot from very knowledgeable people!

Note: The 1800 AR listed on Amazon may in fact be the 1800 PF A, a non AR model. While it is described as an AR, if you zoom in on the picture it is a PF A. Most reviewers describe the AR features, but one flatly stated it was a PF A. Regardless returnable if not an AR.  
 

Generally speaking, @jea48 is right about not mixing breakers.

Technically speaking, if you are mixing breaker brands the breaker has to be "listed" as being tested with the other maker’s panel. I believe this has to do with the maximum interrupt current of the individual vs. main breakers. In any event...

Even if you do get a "listed" breaker, when you go to sell the inspector probably won’t bother to check if it’s listed or not and will flag it as something to be corrected. Just not worth the hassle or potential $10 in savings.

So.... I generally also recommend sticking with the panel maker’s breakers even though you may find a listed breaker to use instead, and always stick to the NEC and local ordinances.   If you are replacing a CAFCI or GFCI or combo breaker always replace it with the same feature set.  (Exception is old AFCI are now called CAFCI and that is good!)..

@signaforce Said:

OK, my decision has been made. I am sold on the AR features. I will purchase the Furman P 2400 AR vs the 1800 for the following reasons:

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4. The captive (why captive?) PC is 12GA vs 14GA for the 1800

Problem... The Furman P 2400 AR has a NEMA 5-20P 20 amp plug. It will not plug into your 5-15R 15A wall outlet.

Look at the photo of the P-2400 AR 20A Plug and the 20A receptacle required.

Technically you will need a 20A branch circuit installed. The captive cord, I believe, was installed on the unit so it could get it safety test Listed. Listed like UL Listed or any other NRTL Listing.

FYI, just guessing, (You know) you will never use a total of up to 15 amps of a combined continuous connected load. Continuous is defined 3 hours or more, NEC.

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I missed where you are ever getting close to 15A, let alone 20A.

However, if you insist on a 20A unit, you’ll need to replace the plug. I use Leviton Hospital Grade plugs because their thick prongs are tighter but also the 90 degree angle takes less floor space and is less likely to wiggle out due to cable movement and leverage.

Actually I only use a 15A conditioner, but still replaced the plug to keep the cable against the wall.  This let me push a bass trap flat to the wall where the plug is.

@erik_squires said:

Generally speaking, @jea48 is right about not mixing breakers.

Technically speaking, if you are mixing breaker brands the breaker has to be "listed" as being tested with the other maker’s panel. I believe this has to do with the maximum interrupt current of the individual vs. main breakers. In any event...

First, per NEC, all circuit breakers shall be Listed.

Quote:

NEC 110.3(B)

Installation and Use. Equipment that is listed, labeled, or both shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

End of quote.

The section is talking about the manufacturer of the electrical panel. Not because a different manufacturer breaker is Listed. The different manufacturer’s breaker is not approved for use in the panel by the manufacturer of the panel.

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Even if you do get a "listed" breaker, when you go to sell the inspector probably won’t bother to check if it’s listed or not and will flag it as something to be corrected. Just not worth the hassle or potential $10 in savings.

True, are any of them home inspectors retired licensed electrical inspectors or retired licensed electricians? The extent of their electrical knowledge is to use a plug-in circuit tester to check for an Open Ground at wall outlets. And GFCI outlets required in the house per Code.

As for installing a different manufacturer’s circuit breaker in another’s manufacturers electrical panel that has been in the NEC for years. I know first hand, on a few instances the electrical inspector seen the violation. Not I ,well maybe I did, but usually the breaker was installed by a different electrical contractor/electrician previously.

Problem is doing electrical work in old buildings in a city where a remodel is taking place. The General Contractor pulls a permit... All subs pull permits. The general contractor can’t call for an inspection until the subs call for an inspection, (if a sub’s work needs inspection before the general contractor’s inspection.)

Problem for the Electrical contractor/Electrician? Usually at the final electrical inspection. The electrical inspector will say something like "did you add any new circuits?" LOL, he knows you did... "Show me the panel." Usually the circuit breaker manufacturer’s name is on the face of the breaker. Problem? The electrical panel manufacturer went out of business years ago. There are no NOS stock breakers. There definitely are not any Tandem breakers. They didn’t exist back then.

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