AC Power


I have a relatively nice system, but have done nothing with my AC power, with the exception of upgraded PC’s and a cheap iFi plug in power conditioner. My question is multi fold… do I need to do something, and if so what? Dedicated line (15A or 20?)? Quality power conditioner? Both? Which one first? How do you tell?

My system is a combination of HT & 2 channel & I tend to use both simultaneously as I like to watch sports while listening to music.
My amp is (I think) a relatively low draw… Moon 330A, Rythmik sub, BHK pre, Aurender, Qutest w/Sbooster, R11’s. No high power amps are in my future & never listen above 75db. I do currently plug my amp directly into the wall. All my wall warts are gone. For my HT, add a 75” Sony TV, Marantz 7015 AVR & a Klipsch sub (although at zero volume the AVR & sub should not come into play).

I am considering buying the Furman IT-Reference 15i or 20i first as they are well reviewed & are priced very well on Amazon ($1,400 / $1,900). Before I pull the trigger, should I go dedicated power & at what amperage (my nephew, an EE & audiophile thinks I am drawing no more than 5 amps) as that will dictate the Furman model?

Interesting, my nephew thinks neither are worth the investment. His statement: “Do you have appliances on the circuit now? What kind of interference can they inject?...voltage drops would come from current draws...which trip breakers.
Not steady 60hz a good power supply handles. So it all comes back to was the power supply engineer dropped on his head as a child.”

”Personally I think it’s something audio people do when they have run out of gear to buy.”

Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

signaforce

@immatthewj The Furman specs for the 2400 are:

10 ft. captive 3/12 AWG, black cord with NEMA 20 plug. Mine is still gathered, as I only needed 3 feet, but would think 10’ is accurate. 

The Furman specs for the 2400 are:

10 ft. captive 3/12 AWG, black cord with NEMA 20 plug. Mine is still gathered, as I only needed 3 feet, but would think 10’ is accurate.

10 ft. captive 12/3 AWG,

 

@signaforce define gathered. I would not coil the the remaining 7ft in a neat tight small diameter coil. Imo, a small coil would act as an inductor.

FYI do not cut off the cord to make it shorter. That more than likely would void the Furman 2400 warranty.

Just a guess, I could be wrong, the length of 10ft cord may be for the proper operation of the type 3 point of use SPD, (Surge protection Device) inside the unit. With a type 3 SPD the minimum length of the branch circuit wiring from the electrical panel to the SPD matters. The minimum length is 30ft.

Type 3– Point of utilization SPDs, installed at a minimum conductor length of 10 meters (30 feet) from the electrical service panel to the point of utilization, for example cord connected, direct plug-in, receptacle type SPDs installed at the utilization equipment being protected. The distance (10 meters) is exclusive of the conductors provided with or used to attach SPDs.

SPD Type.

.

@jea48 - Of course, always follow the rules, but the 30’ requirement AFAIK is to avoid excess current that is too high for the AIR (current interrupt rating) of panel breakers.

This is a problem for parallel based surge protectors. Furman, when labelled SMP, are series mode and limit current. The cord length is a convenience for professionals who often mount them in portable racks.

You kind of answer your own question here:

The distance (10 meters) is exclusive of the conductors provided with or used to attach SPDs.

IOW, the length of the SPD’s cord is irrelevant to the 30’ requirement.

Furman does make less expensive models which are not labelled SMP, which use plain old MOV's.