How good is the crossover in your loudspeakers?

The biggest issue I have with this approach is whether or not you wanted the speakers you bought to begin with.

If the answer is send it to Danny and have him fix it, you are better off buying a kit from Meniscus or Solen.ca or Madisound since these kits tend to have fewer starter problems to begin with.

The only times I really think an upgrade should be done is when the originals have a drop in impedance that can be fixed and keep the original intentions, which is actually do-able.  Older Genesis speakers and some Focals can be greatly improved this way.  Take a B&W 801 D2 though.  There’s a fantastic breakdown of how poorly the tweeter is integrated with the midwoofer... but then look at the fixes, it’s huge and leaves you with something that sounds very different than the 801 you bought in the first place.   The 801 is an extreme case, if it was me I’d 100% have thrown out the internal crossover and gone for an active setup instead, but damn those are expensive speakers to fix up.  

Sometimes it’s worth it for vintage speakers where the tastes of the time are now very different.  Troels Gravesen’s Yamaha NS1000 might be an example of that. 

@spenav: Yes, he has.

To be more specific, he has found some speakers with crossovers that need (iho) no "correction", but can be improved by using better parts (capacitors, resistors, inductors, coils, binding posts, wire, etc.) of the same electrical value. If you do a search through all the GR Research videos on YouTube, the title of some episodes gives a hint that the speaker under review met with his approval. He has praised the designs of Andrew Jones, for instance. There are some others, but yes they are in the minority. But remember, people send Danny their speaker because they themselves find fault in it. No owner of a Magico is going to do that!

In other cases he has advised the owner that the cost to "fix" their speaker is not cost effective, and they would be better off starting over.

As for manufacturing and selling his own, he does, in two forms:

1- As stated above, he sells loudspeaker kits (subs too) for DIY enthusiasts. He supplies the drivers and crossover parts, the customer builds the enclosure and assembles and installs the crossover. By the way, Rythmik Audio also offers their subs in both factory assembled and DIY kit versions. The plans for the F15HP enclosure call for a 4cu.ft. box, while the factory built version uses a 3cu.ft. one. You can build the enclosure in any manner you want,  as long as the internal volume is correct.

I built my pair of 4 cu.ft F15’s with double walls of MDF and Baltic Birch ply, and braced the Hell out of them (a 1.5" square brace every 6 inches, front-to-back, top-to-bottom, and side-to-side (I copied the honeycomb bracing in the Salk subs, which coincidentally used the Rythmik Audio sub kits inside Jim’s beautiful enclosures). Another fault Danny finds in most loudspeakers is insufficiently-braced enclosures. Tekton, anyone? 

2- Factory built loudspeakers and subs. Danny Richie and Brian Ding of Rythmik Audio collaborated on some subwoofers; GR Research sells the Rythmik Audio F12G, the G used in reference to the company name. The G version of the F12 incorporates a paper cone version of the 12" woofer, and Rythmik sells the plain F12, the cone of the same woofer being aluminum. Danny prefers the timbral character (and lower moving mass) of paper over aluminum, Brian the stiffness of aluminum.

GR Research sells only the F12G sub, while Rythmik Audio sells many other models. Danny and Brian collaborated on a remarkable model, the unique Open Baffle/Dipole/Servo-Feedback Woofer. THE sub for all dipole and planar loudspeakers. It was that sub that led me to GR Research.  

Danny has for a number of years now offered his speaker (and sub) kits as assembled and finished products, the work being done by a couple of cabinet makers he partners with. Those cabinet makers also offer the Danny Richie-designed enclosures (the plans for which come in the kit) the GR Research DIY kits require, selling them as "flat packs"---the enclosure baffle, top and bottom, rear and side panels packed in a carton. All that’s required are some woodworking clamps, wood glue, and paint or veneer. Not for your average audiophile, obviously. Not everyone is an @erik_squires. 

It is best to stay away from lousy speakers with serious design flaws in the first place....one can only put so much lipstick on a reeking pig.

I wonder why a crossover mod/upgrade to improve resolution, clarity, etc is the end of the world to some on this forum..i.e., if the baseline design is good to begin with, but, some compromises were made when built to a price point.

There are all kinds of guys rolling tubes, op amps, whatever...and no one bats an eyelid...the same principle should apply to crossover components. It should be very straight forward to keep the original crossover in storage and revert back to it, if needing to sell the damn speaker in its original state.

"Crossover rolling"...shouldn’t be a bad word.

Some make the case that Danny will of course find fault in the designs of others, in an attempt to sell you one of his loudspeaker kits.

Excellent post, @deep_333.

It is only in crossovers which produce poor driver phase relationships (or other technical problems) that Danny Richie does a x/o redesign. If he finds no such problem(s), he merely puts together a parts package that replicates the stock x/o, but with audiophile grade high end parts. He takes the stock crossover out of the speaker enclosure, showing all to see what it is comprised of. Watch a few of the videos, and you will see the proof that even many expensive speakers use poor quality parts in their crossovers. Iron core inductors, sandcast resistors, electrolytic capacitors, binding posts with ferrous parts, etc.

The X Series versions of some Magnepan models offer much the same crossover parts package as does Danny’s Magnepan upgrade kit. From the Magnepan site:

"The general idea of the X Series is to take the existing design of a given model and improve it..."

"How is that achieved exactly? Better capacitors. Better coils (inductors). Better resistors. Better wiring. Better connections. Better materials." These were all covered in Danny’s video on upgrading the Magnepan model send to him by a customer, and included in his upgrade kit.

Magnepan continues:

"Okay it’s better on paper, sure, but how does it sound? The short but truthful answer is that it sounds better! A lot better." 

Here’s one of Danny’s videos on the subject:

https://youtu.be/8IQ4t1Y1mxo?si=shhz3kYWZID3IX9f&t=1

There was a recent thread where the owner of this Eggleston loudspeaker asked what he should do after viewing the Richie video.  I asked him if he actually hears "the hole" and his answer was no, he's never heard it.  The original Stereophile review addresses the issue with setup suggestions.  Basically, it's a loudspeaker you should listen to off axis in a moderate to large sized room.