Bass management--high/low pass filtering

KISS

I'm one to try and keep things simple.  There have been lots of thoughtful comments and I agree that it's usually best to play the speakers full range and then have the sub reach up to that point and fill in.  

Outboard DSP or anything else added to the signal chain will raise the noise floor and is always a tradeoff.  

Start in the shallow end of the pool.  Get your sub and do you best to integrate it.  Unless your room is particularly problematic you should have some great sound.  Only if the sound is unsatisfactory move to the deep end of the pool and add something else in the signal chain.  Good luck and cheers. 

@avanti1960   +1

Adding complexity and restricting the speakers won't help anything. They are design to be full range.

@cooper52 I actually did it myself. I built two high pass filters, one for each channel as I’m running my Audio Research Ref 5SE to two separate ARC Ref 250SE mono blocks. The monoblocks feed a pair of Revel Performa F328Be speakers.

I got some help designing the second order high pass filters from GR Research (they were happy to help me without charging me a dime, which was very appreciated) and I will be happy to share the circuit diagram with you. What made it a little bit more complicated for me was that I’m using balanced connections between the line stage and the monoblocks, but it’s only a few more components.

This does indeed relieve the main speakers from, in my case, anything below 80 Hz, and of course my two subwoofers have low pass filters and with REW I can make sure everything melds really well.

Comments here saying that "main speakers should always be run full range," in my humble opinion, don’t know what they’re talking about. I believe there’s absolutely no basis for that statement, as then in its extension you would say that you don’t believe in crossover filters, as high passing the upper part of the frequency range to the main speakers and let the subwoofers take care of the lowest frequency duty is exactly the same thing as what a crossover filter does inside the main speakers.

@gdaddy1 per my comment above, in my opinion your comment is simply not true

@bimmerlover   Your speakers have triple 8" drivers for excellent bass resonse.

 24Hz (-10dB); 26Hz (-6dB); 35Hz (-3dB)

By crossing at 80hz. you cut them off at the knees. Why buy a speaker this capable and then put a choke on them? I'd bet the triple 8" drivers produce BETTER, tighter mid-bass in the 35 to 80hz range than your subwoofer.

It's called a "subwoofer" for a reason. To lift the line in the sub region. For you the sub would come in around 40hz. It's NOT a woofer. You have triple 8's for woofers but instead your asking the subwoofer to handle this mid-bass range and hobbling the very capable triple 8" drivers. Why buy them if you don't use them?

@gdaddy1 if you know anything about logarithmic scales, at -10 dB it has dropped to a meaningless sound level, so has essentially -6 dB.

The F328Be:s taper out at 35 Hz at -3 dB, which is still a meaningful sound pressure. One of my subs, the KEF KC92, goes down to 11 Hz at -3 dB, a huge difference, and I low-pass filter it at 100 Hz.

In addition, the tube power amps are not that great in controlling the lowest bass as they have a relatively low damping factor. I trust the sub's 2x 500-watt solid-state amps to do a better job controlling the bass drivers.

Besides, I picked 80 Hz, but anyone can choose their preferred high-pass frequency. It is, after all (still, but unfortunately in peril) a free country.