Triplanar Problem

Hi all,

I just spoke with Tri about this whole mounting issue.

While we both agree that your dealer is the first line of inquiry, Tri wanted me to emphasize to you that he's available from 9-5 Central Time to answer questions and resolve problems.

I'd certainly like to help as well, but know that it's all I can do at the moment to support my own customers. Fame has its price (grin).

In the next few days, I'll put a healthy, detailed mounting FAQ in the Tri-Planar section of my website to guide individuals through this process. Over time, I'll supplement it with drawings and photos.

Cheers,
Thom @ Galibier

Japalapalos. 'arm sits very near rim of platterr'.
I owned the model V or VI with the 'old u.manual'.This
distance is important for the anti-scate to work properly.
My feeling then was as yours at present. But I was not
suprised with model VII.The distance of the headshell to
the platter(rim)of my Kuzma is 4 cm. I hope this helps.

Cheers

Thom et al, Since I am thinking of re-mounting my Triplanar on a new tt, I have just re-read this thread. I came to Thom's post, where he says the following: "My point is that even the metal jig should not be trusted, because of sample to sample variance in the mounting flange's orientation." The metal jig that I own has at one end a tiny spring-loaded inverted cup that fits over the bearing screw, right at the pivot point, and at the other end it has a hole that fits over the spindle. It would seem to me that this device eliminates any issues related to the variation in the orientation of the mounting flange. All one needs to verify is that the distance between the geometrical center of the cup at one end and the spindle hole at the other end is equal to 233.5mm (which I surely plan to do). What am I missing?

Hi Lewm,

My bad ... my understanding of the metal jig was that it is a higher precision version of the acrylic one.

The jig I visualized for the Tri-Planar is exactly as you describe the metal jig to be. As long as you lock in the pivot to spindle distance, you're good.

I think that leaving out the drilling holes gives one the freedom to position the arm on the turntable with a bit more flexibility (to clear dust covers, position the arm for or aft, etc.).

Definitely drill the first hole, mount the arm temporarily, re-set the 233.5mm p-s distance, mark the remaining two holes, remove, and drill.

Cheers,
Thom @ Galibier

Yes, I agree it is difficult to locate all 3 holes at once and then position the arm as one would like it. In fact, I am skeptical that I can do the setup within 0.5mm error, but I will certainly try. Having a little play in the screw holes helps, I guess, to get it right at the end. FWIW, the metal jig I describe above was sold to me by Tri, because I lost the original one that was once made by Herb Papier and supplied with every tonearm he sold.