Triplanar Problem

Hi Moisin,

However, maybe the setup tool can be improved.

I'm thinking out loud here ...

My first thought when I read your comments was that the mounting collar alignment needs to be perfected (either by use of some sort of assembly jig or by keying the two parts to each other).

As I thought about this more (and considered the reality of manufacturing), my thoughts turned toward a universal jig that would accomplish the mounting task elegantly while having the advantage of being compatible with all arms in the field.

This would be a two-part "jig" for setup - one that mirrors the process I lay out above. It would consist of:

(1) the existing jig with only one hole - to ensure that the above method I outline is followed
(2) some sort of trammel affair (think Feickert) that allows you to rotate the arm into position and measure the 233.5 p-s distance - this, after temporarily fitting the arm to the armboard with the single screw.

While a trammel affair has its appeal, it's not inexpensive to manufacture, as you need to account for varying record spindle diameters.

If you bore a spindle hole for a large record spindle diameter (e.g. .287"), then the trammel will tilt when used with the more average record spindle diameters (e.g. .280-.282).

One solution is to produce a wide base plate for the spindle hole. This would prevent the trammel from tilting. Unfortunately, once you add material like this, the costs skyrocket, and frankly, the method I propose above will work fine.

I think a part of this discussion involves working with a competent dealer (hate to blow my horn here, but picking up after the incompetents out there tries my patience). There's still a reason for going to a competent dealer for your setup.

For those doing their own mounting, I think a good interim solution is to remove two of the holes in the existing jig, and to follow the instructions I outline above. Having only one hole in the jig would ensure that someone doesn't blindly mark and drill all three holes at once.

I'll get a version of the above discussion on the Tri-Planar page Doug. Thanks for the kind words.

Cheers,
Thom @ Galibier

Thom,

I should have used the word template in my post, but didn't. Anyway, I hope everyone got the drift. The old Magnepan Unitrac did use a two-piece jig, and it was extremely effective. That template had a plastic dowel that connected the two pieces, and allowed for different platter heights. I don't see why a similar arrangement couldn't be made for other tonearms which have mounting posts to the side. After using the Magnepan one, which does key together like you suggest, it seems like a natural thing. You could even mark for all holes with a template like it without any fear of goofing up. I believe it would be an easy project that is long overdue.

Hi all,

I just spoke with Tri about this whole mounting issue.

While we both agree that your dealer is the first line of inquiry, Tri wanted me to emphasize to you that he's available from 9-5 Central Time to answer questions and resolve problems.

I'd certainly like to help as well, but know that it's all I can do at the moment to support my own customers. Fame has its price (grin).

In the next few days, I'll put a healthy, detailed mounting FAQ in the Tri-Planar section of my website to guide individuals through this process. Over time, I'll supplement it with drawings and photos.

Cheers,
Thom @ Galibier

Japalapalos. 'arm sits very near rim of platterr'.
I owned the model V or VI with the 'old u.manual'.This
distance is important for the anti-scate to work properly.
My feeling then was as yours at present. But I was not
suprised with model VII.The distance of the headshell to
the platter(rim)of my Kuzma is 4 cm. I hope this helps.

Cheers

Thom et al, Since I am thinking of re-mounting my Triplanar on a new tt, I have just re-read this thread. I came to Thom's post, where he says the following: "My point is that even the metal jig should not be trusted, because of sample to sample variance in the mounting flange's orientation." The metal jig that I own has at one end a tiny spring-loaded inverted cup that fits over the bearing screw, right at the pivot point, and at the other end it has a hole that fits over the spindle. It would seem to me that this device eliminates any issues related to the variation in the orientation of the mounting flange. All one needs to verify is that the distance between the geometrical center of the cup at one end and the spindle hole at the other end is equal to 233.5mm (which I surely plan to do). What am I missing?