VPI Scout "tweaks"

I replaced the stock feet on my Scoutmaster Signature with Mapleshade brass feet. They really improved the bass and detail. I tried the VPI TNT feet as an upgrade first but sold them. They were a bit more open but not nearly as good as the Mapleshades.

Do the Mapleshade feed thread into the table? Or does the table just kind of sit on the feet?

Rocket323,

I assume you're using the threaded feet? What size did you get, and are you using the Heavyfeet or Megafoot?

They bolt into the table in place of the stock feet. I believe the thread size is 1/4 x 20. Since I did this a while ago, you can double check that thread size by taking a stock foot to your local hardware store and checking it with a bolt and nut with that thread size. They should mesh perfectly. The Mapleshade web page is www.mapleshaderecords.com. I have the threaded Heavyfoot v.3. Warning, the points are very sharp and will nick your rack. They do make a version with a radiused end, but they don't sound as good since they don't lock into the stand. Cost is $40 a piece plus shipping. Pure brass is expensive! My turntable is on one of their Samson v.2 racks. BIG improvement over my old Sanus rack, at least to my ears. Very expensive though. I use their maple platforms under all my equipment. Their speaker stands really make my Snell D floorstanders come alive. Again, not cheap, but the difference in the sound of my system amazes me. My listening room is in the basement with a concrete floor under thick carpet. So, I need all the help I can get. The company president (an engineer) has helped me improve my room sound both by email and over the phone, no charge.

HEAVYFEET FOLLOW UP. I forgot to mention that the motor pulley and the platter will not quite match up with the Mapleshade feet installed. I got a set of Mapleshade's Isoblocks and carefully separated them, leaving one layer of cork and one of rubber. I unscrewed the stock motor rubber feet and placed the motor on top of the Isoblocks, one on each corner. The front screw heads on top of the motor won't clear the platter anymore, so you need to back the motor out a bit. The belt found the proper platter groove after I ran it for a while. Belt tension seems OK and I have run this for about two years with no belt failure. I used a small machinist's ruler/square marked in 64ths to get the motor lined up properly. This is a fussy procedure and will take some patience. This is for the Scoutmaster motor. The stock Scout uses a different motor
so your height requirements may vary.