Which new VPI Turntable?

go used and expand search(in the 2500 range), or purchase a used vpi hw series for less.

Cnalak et al....The 10.5 normally used on the Classic is the same as the 10.5i - VPI's premier 10 inch arm, except that the VTA tower is omited (you can still adjust VTA on the fly, but not as conveniently), it does NOT have Valhalla wire, but a silver coated copper wire, ...and the arm tube is made of stainless steel..not aluminum. I am quite sure you can order the 10.5i with all the timmings as a special order. I wonder if the stainless tube will be incorporated in all 10 inchers, and what the audio consequences of the s/s are.

I'm confused on the aluminum/SS arm? Mine came with the aluminum arm standard, and when I asked VPI about sub-ing the SS arm they said that was only needed, or recommended for heavier cartridges, and I should stick with the aluminum arm. But now I read that the new ones come with the SS arm??

BTW - once again I repeat, in the last year I owned an Aries I/10.5/original heavy platter, and a Scoutmaster Signature (both got the excellent Gingko platforms which helped) and neither could match the Classic in any way. The only reason I got the Classic was I decided to try something different from my Clearaudio Performance (great DECK!!) amd was very disappointed in both the Aries and the Scoutmaster in comparison. After all of the great reviews I bought the Classic (skeptically after my experience with the other VPI's) and I was shocked, it's a great, great table. I am an equipment junkie, always looking to trade out, but the Classic is going to be here for quit a long time.

I got the Classic with its standard arm. My local dealer told me that they can get the Valhalla wire and change it quite easily. However, if you want VTA on the fly, it is not an easy addon once you have the turntable as you will need a whole new assembly. So if you consider it, it is better to order turntable with one right from the beginning.
SDS also is another matter. If you live in the US then it is not a big deal but SDS only works with 110v motor. Since I have a 220v version, if I want to add SDS later, I also will have to change motor to 110v version beside adding the SDS.

if you have a good power conditioner I don't think the SDS makes a big difference. Since you are 220, I am guessing Europe? I tried a million power conditioners because the grid near me (suburban Houston) was underbuilt, and not good. I found the APC S15 (not sure what is comparable for you) to be by far the best at keeping the current constant. I sold my SDS after I bought the APC.

Good luck, enjoy, I love mine.