Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?

Thank you for the kind words, Halcro. As a person with limited means, I'm more of a daydreamer than a "thinker." As for the "doer" part, I've been really lazy lately so I am more of a slacker. There you go, I'm a daydreaming slacker bum! :)

I didn't document much when I was experimenting so I don't have much to show. Here's one picture of using the guts of two Pioneer PLL-1000 tables, one driving the other via VHS tape. I even stuck a Lenco idler wheel in between at one point. Each has their own sonic signature. The tape drive version sounded the most balance. But when I switched to a JVC table I almost couldn't hear the difference. The idler drive one always sounded different, more robust and juicy. Nothing too scientific but it was all fun. :)

PS, This forum is more about validating one's (or invalidating other's) purchase decisions, almost like a consumer guide. It's a different platform from other DIY forums I frequent. I do enjoy out of the box thinking so this thread is quite nice. :)

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I was going to take my Pioneer Exclusive P3 into my tech to have caps etc replaced. He asked me what was wrong with the table. I said, nothing but a few audiophiles said to take it in for preventative maintenance to replace the caps.

He said, changing caps will do nothing for the sound as they are part of the control the turntable speed in the dd table. With the dd tables, it either works perfectly, or it doesn't- simple.
He said tonearm and cartridge will have more impact on the sound than any changes you do to the table, as long as it is working to spec.
If it stops working like my P10 did, he will fix it.

Good enough for me. FYI - Lyra Delos for its comparatively cheaper price is world class. Syntax is correct, it is more resolving than the more expensive Kleos.

Cheers

Downunder, I've never read a claim that electrolytic cap replacement would improve sonics. But I have read advice from respected posters who know much more about electronics than I do that they can dry up or fail in other ways with age. The danger is not that they simply quit working but that their failure may take out other components, some which may no longer have replacements (ICs).

So your initial thought about "preventative maintenance" seems sound. I might look for a different tech. ;^)

Ditto to what Pryso says. Downunder, you might consider finding another "tech". The guy you quote is not very tech-y. As Pryso says, the reason to change out the electrolytics has nothing at all to do with sonics (unless a leaky cap is causing a speed error already). It has everything to do with the fact that electrolytic capacitors have a finite lifespan. Which is to say that after about 30 years since most of our dd tt's were made, the lytics are near pooped. A leaky electrolytic (either electrically leaky, meaning that it can pass DC, or mechanically leaky, meaning there is goop all over the outside) can and will eventually take out an IC or a transistor that may be irreplaceable. Call it preventive maintenance, if you are having no problems. Like changing the oil in your auto engine at regular intervals. For a great tt like the Pioneer P3, do it.

Dear Halcro, Headshell offset angle does have an effect on the magnitude of the skating force, but it is not the prime cause. The prime cause is related to the fact that nearly all tonearms are mounted such that the stylus overhangs the spindle. Thus the cantilever/stylus can never be tangent to the groove. (You are fond of Copernicus; now think about that other Greek, Pythagorus.) Since the cantilever/stylus is not tangent to the groove, friction between the stylus tip and the groove wall creates a force at an angle to the path of the stylus; a component of this force vector is toward the spindle = skating force. A tonearm with no headshell offset angle is not free from skating force.

Lewm/Pryso

thanks for your concern. but the tech has no concerns about exploding caps or his ability to fix if any fail, even thou there are NO technical manuals available so he will be going somewhat blind again.

This is the same tech that fixed my P10 and Halcro's DD's, making his on IC on the P10 so he is more competent than most - There was nothing wrong with the caps in the P10 either.

The P3 was serviced by Pioneer Japan before I bought it a few years back.

I actually slipped a disc in my back trying to move the P3 into the car, so off the radar for some time now. Does not mean I won't do it in the future, but anything this old can fail at any time.