Dear Dover, The statement you "struggle" with is really most applicable to belt-drive turntables, where the two paradigms are most obvious. Compare the Walker Proscenium or any Nottingham (weak motor/big platter school) to an SME or an Avid turntable (strong motor/relatively lightweight platter). And there are many more examples on either side that I am not thinking of at the moment. In direct-drive, we have the SP10 Mk3 (hi-torque) vs the Kenwood L07D (relatively lo-torque but no slouch for torque), but the contrast is not nearly so great since the Mk3 has a heavier platter than does the Kenwood, but the Kenwood is up there in weight compared to most others, e.g. Denon, Victor, Sony. Too bad Travis is preoccupied with moving from Tokyo to HK; he could quote more chapter and verse than I vis vintage dd's. And Kenwood and hi-end Pioneer (read "Exclusive") used coreless motors which tend to be less torque-y because hi-torque versions get too hot, according to my reading. With no core iron, the heat associated with hi-torque is not so well dissipated.
Turntable speed accuracy
There is another thread (about the NVS table) which has a subordinate discussion about turntable speed accuracy and different methods of checking. Some suggest using the Timeline laser, others use a strobe disk.
I assume everyone agrees that speed accuracy is of utmost importance. What is the best way to verify results? What is the most speed-accurate drive method? And is speed accuracy really the most important consideration for proper turntable design or are there some compromises with certain drive types that make others still viable?
I assume everyone agrees that speed accuracy is of utmost importance. What is the best way to verify results? What is the most speed-accurate drive method? And is speed accuracy really the most important consideration for proper turntable design or are there some compromises with certain drive types that make others still viable?
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- 583 posts total
- 583 posts total