Sumiko tonearm rewire


Hi,
About to dwell into rewiring my Sumiko tonearm. Just a few points before I start, if somebody went through this ordeal before.
The wire thickness - 34 AWG will be best? I am looking for 'warm' sound so I guess I should look at copper.
The wire insulation - what is better - silk or enamel?
Any particular solder brand I should be using?

I am not sure if it possible to take off the wand completely in other words to disassemble it, I can see that it is possible to get the wire through without taking it off, but on the other hand if I can take it off I would rather take it off, otherwise I may risk damaging the wire insulation.
Thank you
avs9
I have never rewired a Sumiko. So I can add no advice for that part.

1)34awg is only a starting point. There are many of us that believe the smaller the better. I am using 44awg magnet wire, enamel coated. The clarity in the midrange is astounding. I know you said you like a warm sound, but I will address that later.

2)Copper wire is a good conclusion. I have never tried Silver, so can't comment.

3)Silk or Enamel; here is the hard part. The dielectric has more influence on the tiny signal than most want to admit. Silk is the best since there is no cotton coated wire I know of. A silk wrapped wire will have the least amount of dielectric smearing. At this point your need for a 'warm' sound is out the window. Good. Once you taste clarity, you would never go back.

4)Please invest in lead free, silver solder. Mundorf, WBT being two easy ones to get.

5)I will get a lot of grief for saying this next thing. WBT Nextgen RCA connectors (way too expensive, but the best I have used), with the Eichmann Bullets being the next best. IF XLR, the cheap Neutrik 'non' gold plated being the best of that family for me.

6)Keep the wire on the outside of the armtube for now. Try a few different wire's until you find your fave. Don't discount 46/10 Litz wire, cheap cheap cheap, sounds great.

7)Shielding may not be needed. For my system, careful orientation of the wires as they reach the phono pre get's rid of any hum. Non shielded cables sound best to me YMMV.
Thanks a lot, Cousinbillyl,this is really helpful.
By the way, the old Sumiko wires (now gone as I mentioned) were silk coated, which confirms what you just said.
I am actually excited about getting into this, arm rewire I mean, your short intro will be very helpful. I liked the 'do not put in the arm, go external first' idea!
By the way - where did you get the 44 awg wire from, any particular dealer/brand you have in mind? My guess will be doesn't matter but any particular pointer will help.
Best Regards
Anatoliy
Cousinbillyl,
Sorry, forgot to ask you - the 44 awg wire you mentioned - that was not litz wire, was a single thread, correct?
Thank you
Sorry for the delay.

Litz wire can be found on ebay. PLease remember each tiny strand is coated. This must be removed. If you have a solder pot, great, if not - get some solder on the end of your iron tip, rub it across the ends of the wire, repeat. You will see that with each sucessive pass, less and less 'stuff' comes off the wire. This will be evidenced by black bubbling stuff on the end of the solder iron. Clean iron after each pass, add solder to the end before each 'clean'. Be sure to 'clean' with the lead free silver solder. No use skimping on solder when our cartidges are thousands.

I use straight 'magnet wire'. Go to any transformer rewiring service in your area. They have spools of the stuff. Please remember that magnet wire is very pure. It may not be 6 nines, but there are those that think this hole 6+ nines copper is a load of kaka. If you are a true lunatic, I mean Audiophile, get your final choice 'cryoed'.

I am using a single thread per run of 44 awg magnet wire. This makes 4 wires in total. That was obvious, but I thought I better make sure.

My Allnic H3000V phono pre does not have balanced inputs, that's why I am using the WBT Nextgen. When I am using the Atma-Sphere MP1's phono input,I use the Neutrik.