Modified Lenco vs TW Raven

Gilles,
I forgot to mention that the LS idler wheel is very light although extremely well machined. It's aluminum. Nice bearings inside the hole that slide over the end of the idler arm. And, you're welcome!!

I feel like an idiot. Almost 4 years on my first Lenco project and I'm still learning how to get the speed dead right. Discovered that the motor housing was no parallel to the chassis because of the 6 springs that attach it to the chassis have to be in just the right spot. There are long ones, short ones, and mid size ones. When they are right, and it takes some experimentation, the speed can be set spot on with absolutely zero drift. Never been there until now. Also, I added a nice layer of lead tape (for golf clubs) around the brass weight Jean Nantais supplies with the string weight mod. Makes the wheel pull better with no slip and the Simon Lucchetti idler really runs super smooth that way. Can't wait to add the Trans-Fi Terminator air bearing straight line tracking arm. I think I will get one of those beautiful and tough dust covers the Agon member sells for $275. It will protect the set-up when I'm not around.

I have the Transfi rim-drive Salvation table and linear air bearing Terminator arm and love it. I have not compared it to any of the tables mentioned above but have read reviews that have compared it more than favorably to the Lenco and Garrad tables

Dorkwad, I just re-read your post above, particularly the following passage: "Discovered that the motor housing was no parallel to the chassis because of the 6 springs that attach it to the chassis have to be in just the right spot. There are long ones, short ones, and mid size ones. When they are right, and it takes some experimentation, the speed can be set spot on with absolutely zero drift." My reflex response to this notion is "Huh?" It would seem to me that in the horizontal plane you want the contact patch of the idler wheel to be perfectly tangent to the arc of the platter. In the vertical plane, as you say, the idler wheel should be perpendicular to the driven surface of the platter. This has little to do with the chassis, except that if you attain the goal, there will also be a certain relationship of the drive spindle to the chassis, pari passu.

Dear Dork, After re-re-reading your quoted sentences, I finally get what you mean; you're referring to the horizontal part of the chassis, but I guess it's the platter that matters most. Sorry for my own misunderstanding of your intent.