overwhelmed by record rituals

The pops and clicks could be static, not vinyl, noise. The dusting of an LP (which is all carbon fiber brushes such as the Audioquest do) can create static, so I would get an anti-static gun. Last Stylus Cleaner (amongst others) is a great product, I've used it for years. But apply it before every side. The Last LP Preservative is great stuff too. A VPI HW-16 is a real good idea if you're into vinyl for the long haul. New records have an invisible layer of record stamper release goo on them, which a VPI cleaning will remove. The HW-16 will keep your new LP's in as-new condition as well. You know not to touch the grooves of LP's with your fingers, right? Hold them with the sides of the LP in the palm of each hand, not pinched between your fingers and thumbs. Finger oils get into the groove, and dust landing on an LP with stick to the oil, creating an abrasive mixture, which will lead to noisy LP's. And store your LP's as vertically as possible, without leaning at an angle, to keep them flat. Sounds like a lot of work, doesn't it?!

Hi BDP24 and all-

Yes, it does sound like a lot of work! But as good a place to put my OCD tendencies as anywhere! Thanks, guys, for such incredibly helpful advice. I'm thinking I will go ahead with the VPI HW 16.5--among other things, it's exciting to think I might be able to get into collecting used records this way. Just to ask a few follow ups then, if you all don't mind. Would this make sense for procedure:

For a new acquisition:
1) clean in VPI machine
2) treat with LAST record preservative

before each play:

1) clean stylus
2) use carbon brush
3) shoot with antistatic gun (DO I SHOOT THE VINYL ONCE PER SIDE? WHERE EXACTLY SHOULD I 'AIM' THE GUN? DO I ALSO SOMETIMES SHOOT THE CARTRIDGE???)

and then periodically dust the platter. [CAN I ALSO VACUUM OFF THE FELT MAT OR IS IT BETTER JUST TO GIVE IT A GOOD SHAKING OUT?]

Am I getting close? Thanks!

Mcanday,

Yes, you are close. You could eliminate #3 by using a anti static carbon brush. (grin)
Also I am not so inclined to apply anything that is going to 'stick' to the record. Like that LAST preservative you mention. Some swear by it. I have over 4,000 records. Some bought back when I was in high school. That would be over 40 years ago! All cleaned by my one and only VPI 16.5. No need to clean for each play if you use the anti static carbon fiber brush. None of my records have been coated with any preservative. 99.99% of them are tick and pop free!
Regards,

Regarding LAST Record Preservation Treatment, I used it for a brief time back in the 1980s. I eventually abandoned it because I found that if I applied it to a record that was not scrupulously clean (I didn't have a record cleaning machine at that time) it would substantially INCREASE tics and pops. My speculation is that it tended to "cement" in place any microscopic particles that may be present in the grooves, rather than allowing the stylus to sweep them along.

I do use Last Stylus Cleaner, before and after playing every side of a record. Apply it back to front, of course, and try to avoid applying it any higher up on the cantilever than necessary, to assure that it won't migrate up into the internal suspension of the cartridge. I use a small flashlight to make sure I can see what I'm doing when I apply it.

I also use a Zerostat Milty anti-static gun. My technique is to shoot the record in three places (roughly trisecting it), from a distance of roughly 6 or 7 inches. At each location I slowly squeeze and release the trigger three times, with the last release not being performed onto the record. I seem to recall that results in positive ions being applied last, which has been alleged to be preferable.

For the past 20 years or so I've been using a Nitty Gritty 2.5FI record cleaning machine (the "FI" stands for Fluid Injection), which I have been very pleased with. Various dealers currently offer it for $915 or so. Other Nitty Gritty models are available starting at a bit more than $400, but personally I would not want to have to deal with the manual fluid application, manual brushing, and manual rotation they require.

The VPI machines seem to be more popular among audiophiles than the Nitty Grittys, and I don't doubt that they would be an excellent choice. Personally, though, I like the fact that with a Nitty Gritty you are not placing the record on a platter. The Nitty Gritty's brushing fibers which surround the vacuum slot and contact the record are easily cleaned with a supplied wire whisk, which is preferably used with the vacuum turned on.

I also have a high quality older Oracle record brush, but since getting the Nitty Gritty machine I rarely use it. Although many audiophiles feel differently (as exemplified in the post just above), my instinct is to have as little as possible come into physical contact with a record once it has been cleaned. The concern being that a brush, no matter how well designed, may apply some microscopic particles while removing others. JMHO.

At a far lower price there is also Spin-Clean, which I have no experience with or particular knowledge of.

I would also suggest purchasing a supply of good quality anti-static record sleeves, to be used after each record undergoes its initial cleaning. I use these Mobile Fidelity sleeves.

Also, while I'm not sure how much relevance it may have to tic and pop issues, you might want to consider purchasing a record clamp if you are not already using one.

Finally, Ralph K. of Atma-Sphere (maker of very high quality tube amplifiers and preamplifiers, who participates here regularly as "Atmasphere") has stated in a number of past threads that the audibility of tics and pops can be markedly influenced by the design of the phono stage electronics. The reason being that a lot of the energy associated with tics and pops occurs at ultrasonic and possibly RF frequencies that are not directly audible, but which may have audible consequences as a result of non-linearities, intermodulation distortion, feedback, and other such things that occur in phono stage circuitry. As a general rule of thumb, it can probably be expected that phono stages using passive RIAA equalization and no feedback are likely to give less emphasis to tics and pops than other kinds, although such designs may tend to be more expensive than others if comparably well implemented. Something to keep in mind.

Best regards,
-- Al

Thanks, Al.

One question regarding the gun, what do you mean when you say the last release is not performed on the record? You kind if shoot across the record horizontally rather than aiming straight at it? Or something else? And do you ever use the gun on the cartridge?

Also, I am wondering if my felt mat isn't creating a lot of dust and static too. I have a Rega RP6. Any Rega owners have any tips on this?

With thanks!