Help with fatiguing sound in my PC system

I use a Mac Mini for my computer audio so not sure how well this applies. I am however, using the PS Audio DLIII which I don't find fatiguing in my setup. Not going to offer advice but will tell you what I did to get sound that rivals my cdp.
First off I rip files to AIFF using XLD for bit perfect copies. I tried Apple lossless as well as AIFF with itunes with error correction but none of these were quite good enough. When I used my pc I ripped AIFF with EAC (exact audio copy) to get bit perfect rips. It takes a bit longer to rip but it's worth it IMO.
Next, I decided on the optical out after comparing it to the USB. I don't believe USB is ready if you want the best sound. Even with the optical out I wasn't satisfied until I inserted a Monarchy Audio DIP and then fed the PS Audio via the coax input. I may remove the DIP and compare now that I have everything else sorted out.
That's where I'm at. Perfect rips, no USB out and the DIP. I feel no need to change anything at this point. The only problem for me is 90% of my files were ripped before I started using XLD. My task is to get another external hard drive and rerip everything with XLD. Hope this helps a little.

Fatigueing sound is generally due to high jitter at the wrong frequencies. This will not get fixed without fixing the source or interface with the Master Clock in it.

Most people feel that they can use a $200 interface with a $2K DAC. The opposite is more optimum. Use a $2K interface with a $200 DAC. This interface is more important than the DAC.

Steve N.
Empirical Audio

I auditioned Jplay a couple of days ago and it helped. Less ringing. But the volume control is in 6dB steps to keep the signal bit-perfect, it's not a slider.
I only know of two manufacturer's of re-clockers, Monarchy Audio's DIP products and Empirical's units. Is there a re-clocker out there that I am missing? I know USB-S/PDIF converters re-clock the signal, and there are probably better ones than the MF V-link I bought. Audiophelio, Halide, Stello. Not sure one of these will make as significant a difference as a new clock.
Does anyone out there use a PC setup with Focal 826v or 836v? I'm interested in how you set up your source.

Is your system too bright? Or is it etchy, grainy? Or both?

You're referencing speakers with metallic tweeters, a solid state DAC that is known to be bright (similiar to the Benchmark DAC1), and you're driving your amp directly with one of those types of DACs? If so, that is a scenario for a heachace, jitter nor not. And fixing the jitter WILL NOT cure brightness or a forward system/setup.

"Is there a re-clocker out there that I am missing?"

Depends on what you want to reclock. Here is one that is more for Sonos and AppleTV etc..:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=102003.0

"there are probably better ones than the MF V-link I bought. Audiophelio, Halide, Stello. Not sure one of these will make as significant a difference as a new clock."

They will and there are better ones if you want to do USB. This makes the difference between harsh digital and analog SQ.

Steve N.
Empirical Audio