Speltz Anti Cables

David, The cables are now closely tied, and up on cable risers. I used four tie wraps, tightly cinched, evenly spaced down the eight foot length of the cable - the conductors are so stiff, only a few are needed to keep the cables bundled. I just got home, and will do some more listening tonight to the recent configuration. In the tangential thread, there was a lot of discussion of geometry, and spacing with regard to rising inductance. I simply decided to put into practice what many had suggested, and as I stated in my earlier post, I like some things about the change, and dislike others. What I seek is to balance the properties of both configurations, and that means (I think) realigning the geometry, so that the conductors don't quite touch, but are in close proximity to each other, and have approximately equal spacing down each cable. How I am going to put that into practice will have me walking the aisles of Home Despot searching for a spacing solution. As I thought about this today, my parameters are equal spacing, most likely a circular configuration (think of each conductor wrapped around a round core of something, but evenly spaced), minimal contact with the conductors (the simplicity of the wire is in its basic dielectric and freedom from plastics, sheaths, covers, etc) and low cost. Good listening, -Richard

Ever see knob and tube electric wiring? Too bad this set up would be so unsightly!

This is how I have the cables spaced about 1.5" and raised above the carpet about 5". They are the myrtlewood bases with electric insulators I used as supports for the previous cables with a dowel to adapt them to hold these separate wires. It's a start.

Now,for a cosmetic question.
Im planning on running my cables along my baseboard,extended out and up 2 or so inches from the baseboard/floor with 'something' I have not decided on yet.
Im wondering if the cables can be lighty painted to match the baseboard.
The red 'covering'on the cables looks like paint,but I really am not sure what it is.
Thanks.

Palasr: I see that you've taken to using the "chaos theory" form of cable geometry i.e. multiple conductors laying wherever they fall : )

Your plan to spiral wrap the conductors around a vibration absorbing core material with a gap between them is very similar in concept to some interconnects people were discussing quite a while ago. Since consistent spacing would be very difficult to achieve, you would have kind of a cross between what you had before and your current "chaos theory" geometry that you now have. That is, you would have a relatively consistent nominal impedance due to the specified gap that you mentioned yet there would be impedance bumps due to the lack of perfectly consistent winds. Some say that having a consistent impedance is what provides a specific sonic signature ( and it probably does to a certain degree ). They believe that a random impedance is best in order to achieve a lack of a sonic signature, whereas others would say that loading / power transfer / transient characteristics would be random at best. I would be interested to see what you think when all is said and done.

Eagle: Your cables remind me of an elevated model train track hovering in space : )

While i don't know the specifics, the nominal impedance of this type of arrangement would be VERY high i.e. well in excess of 300 ohms. With a less than "robust" amp and a set of speakers that were highly reactive / low impedance, i could see this cable acting as a beneficial buffering device. That is, where the amp might shut down using more conventional cables, it might run fine with this type of arrangement. Obviously in this type of situation, having a system that works is better than a system that doesn't work.

This is kind of what Nelson Pass did when one of his amps kept shutting down trying to drive his old Dayton Wright Electrostat's i.e. used a smaller gauge, higher series resistance cable that presented a higher nominal impedance. Under more normal conditions i.e. an amp that can drive the speakers without much of a fuss, the presentation would be strictly a matter of personal preference.

David: That "red" stuff is the dielectric insulation material, which is some type of enamel base. I don't know how great of an insulator enamel is in terms of chemical penetration into the conductor, so you might want to use an enamel based paint. I'm kinda guessing that this shouldn't create a problem. Sean
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