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Power Cords on a $1000 budget what would you do?

I am still running stock factory cords and am looking to upgrade. My wife has a very limited patience level when it comes to swapping in and out multiple iterations I am enlisting your help to point me in the right direction. I have 3 power cords to buy. A 6ft length for my power amp. A 3-4 ft cord for my pre-amp and CD/DVD player. My system is outlined below. What I'm interested in knowing is if you had $1000 to spend on 3 power cords, how would you spend it and which cord would go on which componant?

My system is as follows:
Speakers: Proac Studio 200
Center: Proac CC2
Surrounds: Definitive BPZ/A in-walls
Sub: Sunfire Architectural Signature
CD: Denon 2910 (3-4ft)
Processor: Rotel 1066 (3-4ft)
Amp: Rotel 1095 (5-6 ft)
Power Center: Monster 3600 (3 ft)
Tuner: Sansui TU717 (3 ft)
I/C's Pure Note Paragon (Silver) throughout
Cables Pure Note Paragon (Silver) Bi-wire

What would you recommend for me getting started to hear the biggest positive impact? I have worked my way through combinations of Acoustic Zen Hologram and Matrix ref 2 I/C, through PS Audio Statement, and lastly Pure
Note Signature speaker cables. I have found the Paragons satisfying. I have my HT set up on a dedicated 20A circuit with the red hospital grade Hubbel wall outlets. I didn't install the real high priced wattgate,oyaide, etc...
sempaul
sempaul OP
22 posts
 
I've been able to detect improved punch with my amp when plugged directly into the wall vs thru the Monster yet am a little nervous having a $2k amp one lightning strike away from being fried. My understanding is the Richard Gray units have surge protection but also store additional energy.

Anyone out there care to comment?
boa2's avatar
boa2
1,551 posts
 
Sempaul,
Our utility company placed surge protection outside at the meter, and they have a $50K coverage for related damage. Costs us about $6/month, and we could detect no affect on the sound of the system. Just to be safe, I still would not leave the system on in the event of a lightning storm.

We have found that we prefer the sound with everything plugged directly into the wall. We used to have one amplifier that drew so much current that a steady flow from a regenerator was sonically beneficial in that case. Otherwise, the CDP, amp, preamp, all of it goes straight into the wall. Conditioners are like any component in the system. Try different ones. You may find one you like, and you may not.

Hope that helps.
inscrutable
312 posts
 
Viridian, everyone else seemed to miss it, but I'm still ROTFLMAO
seekburk
126 posts
 
Sempaul i see you ordered your VH cords.Curious as to how you find them.Anyway you may want to(if you can afford it) try ALL Flavor 4 golds on all of your components.I have that configuration and love the sound.Chris from VH Audio was using all Flavor 4 golds in his system as well until the release of his Airsine cord.Now his system has ALL Airsines.There must be a reason for that.I have found out that it just works better then the other flavors for ALL of my components regardless of the descriptions.Worth a check out anyway.
Good luck!
sempaul OP
22 posts
 
It's a year later. I have managed to upgrade my system in places:
Denon 3910 in place of the 2910.
McCormack DNA-1 deluxe as my main amp (still using the 1095 for surrounds, center channel, and 2nd room inwalls)
BPT Signature 3.5 in place of the Monster 3600
Neotech OCC Silver I/C's (huge improvement)
All VH Flavor 4 w/ Gold Furutechs.

With each change I have noticed increased width and depth to the soundfield. I also now have a truly tunefull bass extension and a very full natural presence in the highs and mids.
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