Eee3, I know what you mean. Although I have a great sounding system there is a lot better out there if you spend the money. In my town there is not any selection in terms of high end audio so to get high end you either have to rely on reviews and travel or use mail order, which makes it difficult. I was in the Pittsburgh, PA area one day and stopped in a shop that had a system hooked up with Macintosh electronics and a pair of B & W 802D's. The sound was beautiful but this caused a problem for me. When I got home, my own system sounded dull for about a month. So I agree that you can get a lot better sound if you spend the money. I suppose that system was valued somewhere around 25k as opposed to my system valued at around 5k. The next issue for me is that I recently started reading Stereophile and this has started me down another path into another realm in audio. I have been buying audio for around 30 years myself and always kept a nice system but until reading Stereophile, etc. and trying things out, I never realized the difference made by interconnects, speaker cables and power cords. Good enough for me was the likes of NAD and Mission, not that any of this is junk. I am happy with the sound of my system but this is like starting over again. Anyway, thanks again for your help. Lots of knowledgeable people and good advise on Audiogon.
Power Cord Question
My system is more on the budget end but some of the components have detachable power cords with two prong connectors/terminals on the rear. I notice that most upgraded power cords have connectors that plug into equipment having three prongs. Can these 3-prong power cords be used to plug into the rear of components having only 2-prong connectors in the rear without hurting anything or degrading the sound? Thanks for your input.
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Darkeyes, for what its worth, you'll get the biggest bang for your buck with a good powercord, even more so than going to the next component upgrade. I would recommend you trying the fusion line. Their entry level cord is the predator($550 retail)but you can get it for around $300-$350. Go to their website www.audiosurroundings.com. The contact person is Eric Love, a very good person to deal with. He will let you demo his cords, if you don't like you can send back and get your money. The only downside is it takes 150-200 hrs. to break-in. |
07-25-08: Darkkeys With doubled insulated AC power wiring the metal case of the equipment is floating and does not need the use of the safety equipment ground. Jmho eventually all audio equipment will be built this way. ************============================= Based on the above explanation is there any reason to go beyond the manufacturers specs by replacing the power cord with another companies power cord in the pursuit of better sound? Yes..... Many manufactures seem to cut corners when it comes to the power cord. If you check the stock pc it should give you the wire size. Example 18/2, 16/2, maybe 14/2 awg. The first number, before the /, is the wire size number in awg. The number after the / is for the number of conductors within the cable. I would be surprised if the Amp's pc is bigger than 16/2. (The lower the wire number size, the larger the conductor. #14 awg is larger than #16 awg.) When you tried the new aftermarket pcs I am not surprised they did not sound good right out of the box. As others have said you need to burn them in. Something else, as a rule shielded pc cables will degrade the sound of a Power Amp. For an Amp a heavier wire gauge non shielded cable usually works best. Shielded pc cables are better suited for digital equipment. The reason being they will reject EMI and RFI noise. And that works both ways. Interring as well as exiting the digital equipment. Power cords . |
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