Speaker cables for 4 ohm speakers

Yes. Use the two positives spades together and and the two negative spades together. You can use any of the sets of binding posts you wish. Personally I always use the bass posts but I must admit, I'm not a religious person when it comes to the issue of whether using bi-wiring is a real sonic improvement or just a commercial issue.

Some high quality speaker manufacturers resisted using bi wiring for a long time, some still do. I've played with it a lot and must admit to even using different types of cable on the highs and lows just to see if I could get a great blend on the cheap. I ended up single wiring my speakers a number of years ago, checking out the benefits with each new speaker arriving of bi-wiring, and have kept it simple. FWIW.

Resist the urge to try bi-amping your speakers. You really need a lot of experience, a good outboard cross over, and synergistic amps just to start out a very frustrating trip.

The only bi-amping I would ever recommend is using idential amps and for me that is right up there with bi wiring for probable benefits, and a lot more expense.

BTW, if you ultimately decide to go with single wire using the Canare, I'd chop off the spades and replace them with some locking bananas or large(r) spades. FWIW a tweaky suggestion while I'm at it. I go to my handy electronics store and buy some 1/4" pure copper lugs used for batteries. They can handle very heavy gauge cable (but you need a vice to crimp them) and then you remove the nuts on the binding posts and slip the lugs on over the posts. Makes for a much better and safer connection. These will not come loose. And, FWIW, I think the pure copper might actually sound a bit better, but its probably just the better connection. :-)

You should be able to connect the cables to two sets of binding post (as if you were bi-wiring) and simply add the jumpers between the posts. This should for all intents and purposes be same as stacking the spades on one post and then adding the jumpers.

As for the orignal OP question, you should focus on finding the cables with lowest impedance especially for the long runs.

Is there any way you could shorten the cable runs?

"I am using a Coda CSi Integrated amp that has a pushed bias of 45w class A to about 600 watts 4ohm rating."

Can somebody tell me what this means?

"I am using a Coda CSi Integrated amp that has a pushed bias of 45w class A to about 600 watts 4ohm rating."

Can somebody tell me what this means?"

Good question!
It probably means that said amplifier circuit is designed ("biased") so that the first 45W output are in class A; furthermore, the total rated output of the amp is 600W for 4ohms and probably 300W into 8 ohms.

I will try a few of these methods and look to jump the other posts and just double up on the canare. I will let you know my thoughts...I did catch a quick read from Nordost last night about jumping bi or tri wire posts and with the tri wire the mention was to jump the treble and bass and plug into the midrange post

Gregm well said above about the 45w bias...the previous owner of this CSi integrated had it built and tweaked to his liking and stated that he never really heard the switchover from class A to A/B...and neither do I...