How does one get off the merry-go-round?


I'm interested in hearing from or about music lovers who have dropped out of the audio "hobby." I don't mean you were content with your system for 6 weeks. I mean, you stood pat for a long time, or--even better--you downsized...maybe got rid of your separates and got an integrated.

(I suppose if you did this, you probably aren't reading these forums any more.)

If this sounds like a cry for help, well, I dunno. Not really. I'm just curious. My thoughts have been running to things like integrated amps and small equipment racks and whatnot even as I continue to experiment and upgrade with vigor (I'm taking the room correction plunge, for example.) Just want to hear what people have to say on the subject.

---dan
Ag insider logo xs@2xdrubin
Mapman, the computer chip in the key is for security reasons, not to make ignition better. The chip *talks* to the chip in the engine and says "I am trying to start this vehicle legitimately". If someone tries to start the vehicle without using the matching key, the car alarm will go off. I'm sure it won't deter professional car theifs, but it does provide a level of security for amatuers. BTW, I'm driving a 2008 Toyota Avalon....nice car. :)

Also, it cost about $300 for the full service key, but you can have a spare 'valet' key made for around $90. The valet key has no buttons on it, and will not open the glove box.
Take an interest in something else or your system will never be completed. When it comes to sales Johnny Boey is the order of the day.
Mapman - I sort of understand your meaning of "learning how to leverage component specifications into the buying decision." Can you give me an example?

Seems I hit a nerve with this story and I did not write about it all!
Sail,

In chosing an amp, i found limiting choices to those with certain damping factir, power, current, and input impdedance spec ranges helped to find a good match to my speakers and tube pre-amp faster.

Phono rigs in particular are also usually best assembled based on various specs for matching cart to tonearm.

Also of course feature specs are important to find the right options in addition to delivering good sound.
Mapman,

I know we are taking this thread in a slightly different direction but let's take my current system:

My amp spects are
1000w @ 4ohm 500W @ 8ohm
Damping Factor 2000 into 8ohm
Neutrik Silver XLR Differential inputs -2V for full output
>119dba Dynamic Range
dc - 38khz Frequency Range
83% Total Effeciency at 500W @ 8ohm

And my Speaker specs are:
Frequency Range: 38 Hz to 46 kHz
Sensitivity: 86 dB
Impedance: 8 ohm nominal / 4 ohm minimum

How would someone use this information to help decide on if they are a match for sound quality?