Power cords - snake oil?

Ditto on Snookers advice. There is plenty of info to go on and very little to add other than new products as they pop up, reviews by new owners and questions to the already existing threads. As to why you would add them to a system, I think that the answer is obvious (to improve the sound). What other reason would there be? Being skeptical is a good thing, though first hand experience is the only way to form a true opinion and this seems to be where you are headed. As far as the poll goes I would estimate that less than 1% of the members at this site believe that a good PC in the right application is a form of snake oil. Good does not need to be expensive in that I use some $50 PC's that make a hell of an improvement over stock. On the other hand I use some pricier ones that make a heavenly improvement. The trick is finding the right ones for your taste and each piece of equipment in your setup as synergy, as always, is the ruling factor.

Since there are so many different power cords to choose from, and the fact that they're system dependent, is there someplace that allows you to return a cord if you don't like it's sound in your system? Or is it all a big crapshoot?

Things can get expensive in a hurry if you have to buy and sell several cords before finding one that works. I've had friends recommend the Shunyata King Cobra, Electraglide Fatman and BMI Whale. How's a fella to know which one to gamble on?

My system consists of a Joule Electra preamp, Sony 777es SACD player, Electrocompaniet EMC-1 CDP (trying to decide which one I'll keep), EAD PM 2000 amp, Aerial 7B speakers, Harmonic Tech Pro Silway IC's and Kimber 8TC speaker cable. I primarily listen to jazz, vocals and some pop.

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

Thanks,

Ken

Ken: The Cable Company offers this service on the cables/cords that they carry. I would ask Brian at BMI directly about his products as I am pretty sure that they are still sold direct. Other than a local shop or the Cable Company you will just have to check out each manufacturer. Many have a 30 day return policy. It's a lot of work, but better than buying and reselling, I agree.

Ditto, D-K above. Also, if you get 1 pc on trial, try first on pre or cdp; when connected, let the pre/cdp play a bit before you embark on serious listening.

I have been reading these posts on power cords for a while. As Snooker says, everyone has an opinion. I will make an analogy to an expensive bicycle; manufacturers will cut on the less noticed components (ie. seat post, bars, etc.) to maintain price points. In stereo equipment, one of these areas may be the power cord.

Although I am no expert, it seems the power cord has 2 primary functions, to transmit current and to keep out noise. Larger gauge wires carry more current. Better terminations on your cord (and a better wall outlet) should reduce losses and noise. Shielding and ferrite suppressors help keep out noise. I have one (somewhat) expensive power cord and it runs to my main 2-channel power amp, since the amp draws the most current. My other cords have been upgraded to Volex or Hubbel 14awg shielded cords with ferrite suppressors added. By going through an electronic supply outlet for both the cords and suppressors, the cost was relatively low (about $20 per cord). My next upgrade in this area will be having the electrical in my house upgraded with dedicated power lines for my stereo equipment. These upgrades have worked for my associated equipment. If you have an expensive system, you may notice a difference with better cords on all components (and don't forget the power conditioner - another thread!).