mods for Adcom GFP-750

Sean: your points are fair, although I still believe, based on my own experience over a lengthy period, that major mods do not make good sense. The only mods I have ever heard that seemed worth the cost were the units from Audio by van Alstine. His "mods", however, are actually complete rebuilds using the chassis, power supplies, and maybe some of the internal circuitry. I personally think that any mod that costs more than 20% of the original purchase price is not cost effective, particularly if the owner plans to sell the unit at some future time.

Don't get me wrong, many mods are FOOLISH at best. Some are not cost effective and in many cases, actually degrade the performance of the unit. There there are the "cosmetic" upgrades, such as swapping one brand of gold plated copper binding posts for another brand of similar design but shaped differently, etc.. While "old golden ear" might be able to hear the difference between well designed components like these, i sure can't. Internal wiring and its routing is another story though. Things like this can make not only an audible difference, but also sometimes quite measurable differences. Sean
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Sean and SDcampell, thanks for your inputs. Its good to get constructive opposing views on the same subject. I'm considering modifying my cd player, Sony SCD-777ES SACD. What is the prefered way to route internal wire and which internal wire works best (Cardas, Wonder, Harmonic, Silver)? Was wondering in order of bag for the buck which components are usually better to replace in the power supply and analogue output stage circuit? Capacitors (Black Gates), Resistors (Caddock or Vishay), or diodes (Harris Fast Soft Recovery)? Does it pay to attach the deflex sheets to the top plate of the chassis? Since my power transformers are not shileded like the SCD-1, does it pay to buy the TI shielding and "apply it" to the transformers? Thanks in advance for your inputs. Mike

I do not like to bunch wires together ( especially power supply and signal wires ). Spread them out as much as possible. In terms of "re-wiring" something internally, keep in mind that this WILL alter it's tonal balance to a noticeable degree in most cases. This can be taken advantage of to some degree if you know what your doing and working with. As to specific recommendations of brand names, i won't / can't do that. There are just too many variables involved, especially the one called "personal preference". As to the various solders that i've worked with, Wonder is by far the easiest to work with. As to which one "sounds best", i don't know. I've read that Jenna labs did a test and they came away with the opinion that the Cardas sounded the best. As you might guess, that is what they use on all of their cables. I have used it many times before and found it slower to melt, slower to form and easier to make a bad connection with. I also like to take detailed notes when doing mods, as this way you can always "back-track" should you need to. There are some things that just don't work out the way that you think that they should. Being prepared for that will never hurt you. Sean
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Sean, thanks for your input. I'll remove the product names and just ask the questions in a generalized way. In terms of "bang for the buck" which components are usually better to replace in the power supply and analogue output stage circuit? Capacitors, Resistors, or diodes? Please give order of biggest improvement to least improvement. Does it pay to attach the noise damping and RFI/EMI blocking sheets to the top plate of the chassis? Thanks, Mike