Amp "Hum" caused by dimmer switches

Thanks for filling me in Albert. Sounds like you have an absolutely killer system in every way possible.

I hope i didn't come across as criticizing your suggestions. I've always found your comments and writing style completely enjoyable and well worth paying attention to. While I was simply trying to cover the simplest and least expensive stuff first, I can understand your suggestions also. Like you said though, not everybody thinks or does things the same way. In that respect, it would be better to try some basic filtering before unloading the amp. Sean
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Albert, do you have a before and after story on the sound? How much better was it after the "extreme" electric? Does your system always now sound like Sunday morning 3AM.(no I am not kidding). Very late night electric is way way better sounding. I think most of the "gremlins" where folks love their system one day and can't get the "magic" the next day, are all mostly due to electric variations.
Dimmers, even Lutron, are all a nightmare in audio. Halogen track lighing is even worse. The buzzing can even be heard on the lights themselves. Arcmania's post is dead on.

The before and after story is that all the electrical work produced an unmistakable upgrade in performance in every piece in the system. It was obvious from the first few notes, and it got better after some burn in time.

The disappointment comes in the fact that it does not always sound like 3:00 AM Sunday morning. I know what you are describing, and only wish that could be.

The sound is always better than it was before, but still improves during the quiet times you are talking about. A good description would be that the electrical work moved the entire system up, but was unable to overcome the laws of physics (IE: You can still hear the noise, hash and crud on the electrical lines till everyone has finally gone home to bed.)

Albert....not to stray from the thread, but I am interested in your service entrance. Three phase on a home? With "CT" metering? Did you have to pay a fee for the "private" transformer? Do you have to pay a "demand" fee for the three phase? Two seperate grounding electrode systems, not bonded together, no problems with difference of potential? ie, any surges comming in on the grounded conductor (neutral) and passing right by the main ac grounding electrode and out through your equipment to the other grounding system? Just curious......

The CT metering was obtained, only after contacting a supervisor at Texas Utilities. My photo studio is built on the back of my home, and requires 200 amp service. I told them that the house with its normal 200, plus the photo studio's 200 was close enough to go with the big box. They provided at no charge and I paid the electricians to do the install. If someone were to pull my meter, the service would continue without being recorded. Therefore, I have the only meter panel in the neighborhood with a TU keyed padlock installed.

My main reason for wanting this type of box is the fact that the standard version has a huge coil of wire with prongs that plug into your service panel. That way, if the meter is pulled, the service is disconnected. The problem with this is the stereo system is going through that crappy meter and those strange plugs and wires. The panel I have uses solid 8 gauge copper rods to connect the drop to the interior. The meter simply clips around these rods, and reads the usage like an Amprobe would.

All in all, the house has 4 breaker boxes. One is strictly for 220 AC, which branches off with 8 gauge to a sub panel that supplies 220 to my stereo system. I choose Hubbell twist locks and they are floor mounted. All the remaining stereo runs (12 others), are to Hubbell hospital grade with special ground (no strap).

The Photo studio has two panels, one for normal lighting and household outlets, and a heavy duty panel with 10 dedicated runs for photographic lighting and equipment. The remaining panel is a 200 amp Square D which supplies the home, regular stuff like hair dryers and lights.

The requirement for this service was 00 (double zero) drops from the transformer and service. The copper I wanted was available, but required an additional service pole in my back yard to support the additional weight. Calculations by TU said that the run in copper would pull the entire service off the side of my house. I did not want the creosote pole by our swimming pool, so I dropped this idea and went with the standard 00.

The three phase was already in the alley, and the laws concerning utility service in Texas are that the homeowner "must require" the service to obtain it. If it is required, then they must provide the service without penalty. I simply bought a 5 ton Lennox commercial air conditioner for my home, which is 220 three phase, and the drop was free. My electric bill dropped, due to the greater efficiency of the Lennox unit, combined with the greater efficiency of three phase.

The ground issue seems to not be a problem. The household ground is on a 8 gauge run to the copper water supply pipes and then to a big copper rod in the earth provided by the utility. My stereo system is grounded to three copper rods, one under the house, and two outside. They are in a large triangle, and are tied together. My VOM does not show any leakage, and the system is dead quiet.

The first reaction for everyone is that this whole thing is a bit over the top. However, if you consider the investment in stereo gear, the money saved on air conditioning, and the availability of 220 for European goods (should I wish), plus improved meter panel performance, it was a bargain. To put this in perspective, the completed cost was less than the retail price of three Purist Audio Dominus power cords (which I also use). My only regret is not having done it sooner.