Biwire questions - Best cable for <$300

At $300 - $400, I would use either an internal biwire(one speaker cable with two leads at the speaker end) using AudioQuest Midnight. Or a shotgun configuration(biwire with two separate cables, but one lead at amplifier end) using AudioQuest Indigo. Both recommendations would be for used cables. You probably would be able to do this in your price range. While I am a huge Kimber fan, my opinion is that it would be a bit too sizzly in your setup. If you ever need jumpers, buy 10(2 feet) or 12(3 feet) gauge silver from a jewelry supply house over the net for $8.95. Better than ANY brass(or copper), and much cheaper to boot. But, a bigger recommendation would be to try to shorten your speaker cable length(if at all possible), and go to longer interconnects. This will make a MUCH greater improvement than ANY speaker cable you could buy for most any price.

Trelja again has words of wisdom, I forgot my cable recommendation at this price for new cable would be Analysis Plus Oval 12 or try shorter cables and got to AP Oval 9. For used the AQ indigo/midnight/forest lines are good and readily available on Audiogon, I slightly prefer to Kimber TC series, and have owned both, Sam

On every speaker I have heard it made absolutely no diference with bi-wires. The idea of this is to separate the reactance coming off the woofer from getting to the tweeter. With bi-wire speaker cables the wires still come together at the speaker terminals so whats the difference if they come together at the back of your amp or just inside the speaker. Zippo Rip-off

Snook 2 - "The wires still come together at the speaker terminals so whats the difference" - I am not quite sure what you mean, but a speaker designed for bi-wiring has separate speaker terminals for the tweeter and for the bass/midrange. If your speakers only have two terminals for + and - then they are not designed for biwiring. There are even a few 3 way speakers designs that separate the bass/midrange. Anyone ever Tri-Wire ???