Turntable innertubes: air, water, oil


My turntable sits on three 4" squares of Navcom rubber .75" high, on a Torylite board that rests on two 12.5" x 2.25" bicycle inner tubes placed within a shallow wood and medite box. At first the tubes were partially inflated with air, then I removed the valve cores and filled them at the kitchen sink with 16 ounces of water each. I put the valve core back in and the cap on, and have had no problem with leaking. Going from air to water clearly improved the sound. In the past few days, I've replaced water with 15 ounces of mineral oil, all I could get in. Mineral oil is thicker than baby oil, and while I wanted a thick oil, I was afraid car oil or transmission fluid would attack rubber and cause a spill too horrible to contemplate. The challenge of getting oil into innertubes can be met thus: in the middle of a 24" by 1" piece of wood, drill a hole just big enough to take the valve stem, then drill a second hole meeting this one at a right angle, through the .75" thickness of the wood, just big enough for a .25" bolt to be threaded into, cutting threads in the wood as it goes. Pass the valve stem through the first hole and use a .25" bolt in the second hole to clamp it firmly in place. Rest the ends of the 24" stick over a large pot or bucket, to catch spilled oil. I used a squeeze bottle with a pointed nozzle for the filling. It took me more than an hour per tube. For most of the filling, it was hardly faster than a drop at a time. I'm sure there must be a better way to do this, but I'll leave it for others to find. One problem is that air must come out as oil goes in, even if the tube is squeezed flat at the outset. The sonic results were worth it! In a word, the sound was less blurred, in sharper focus. Details that had been vague before, like quiet jazz cymbal work and accompanying bass, were now vivid. Instruments sounded more "present", and interplay between instruments was striking. Dynamics were sharper. I think that oil improved more over water than water improved over air, but so many changes have occurred in my system since I used air that I can't be sure. I wonder if any commercial suspension device uses anything but air. If not, there's room for a major improvement here, IMHO.
tom_nice
Tom_nice - I could be wrong, but it is possible you are going round in a circle. Using air bladders at first comes like a breath of fresh air because the peakiness of structure-borne resonances is removed. But on the other hand, the sharpness of the outlines and of leading edges is diminished. Your use of fluids may be giving you a half-way house that may be ideal for you. I will have to try an oil-filled bladder now, darn it. But after trying bladders I have had more success by getting rid of the bladder and focus on reducing the peakiness of the structure I use. As to leakage problems, you can deal with this by sitting the bladder in a shallow leak-proof box, but my experience is that leaks of this nature start out being very slow ones.
Megasam, I knew already that air bladders are commercially used--isn't that implicit in my post? But thanks anyway for the information, even though for me it wasn't. Redkiwi, I've come to respect your expertise from other posts, but if "the sharpness of the outlines and of leading edges is diminished", I must have lost my ears. EVERYTHING is better! But try for yourself. I have my tubes in a shallow box, as I've said, and even a catastrophic leak would be easily contained--not like a rack, for example. If there's a downside to thickish oil in tubes, I haven't heard it yet.
I was just fishing Tom because I was interested - but it is you that has got me hooked now - I am going to have to try this oil trick. I found there was a "swimminess" or somesuch that I struggle to explain with bladders. When you say everything is better are you referring to bladders in general or the improvement of oil over air?
We had a tweak demonstration for our Audio Society this weekend, and I would have to say that the innertubes under all components made a noticable improvement in all of the demos, both for soundstaging and for the leading edge of transients. You have to play with the air pressure--it shouldn't be too high, or you start losing the benefits. One thing our demonstration also tried, which many of us liked, was the use of silicon in the tubes. Tom, Redkiwi, you might want to try something like that as well as oil (not car oil, you're right, it would degrade the rubber), which we also found to be beneficial.
Reprince - Which silicone were you using? I'd tay away from cyclomethicone as it is a) volatile and b) a very good solvent. Best to go for a medium low viscosity polydimethylsiloxane (25 to 100 centipoise). Not sure where/how you buy at retail, but GE Silicones and Dow Corning are the major US manufacturers. You cna probably buy it from Aldrich or Fisher chemical supply companies.