SOL if captive power cord?

If you're handy with electronics (or a friend is), you could hard-wire a good PC to your unit (it beats any IEC connector by far), although you may risk losing your warranty. I once had a friend make me up an IEC to two-pronged adapter, to use his power cord from the wall to the adapter, then plug the captive PC into the adapter--it gave some, but not all, of the filtering effect of his power cord. I did this with the electronic crossovers for my speakers--when I replaced that arrangement with a hardwired PC of similar quality there was a significant improvement, as you would expect if only because there were less connections. One cheap improvement you could do is to clamp a ferrite choke (get 'em at Radio Shack) over the captive cord right by the place it enters the unit; that gave me audible improvements about equal to the adapter setup for a pittance.

Install an IEC socket-- piece of cake.

I've hard-wired (hard-soldered?) a better power cord onto an outboard sub amp / crossover with good success. Use good quality eutectic solder for the connections, take your time. If you don't know how to solder, the inside of your CD player is not the place to practice, but with a little repetition, you should be able to do it no sweat. Remember, good hot joints yield shiny smooth solder-- dull and grainy looking solder is BAD.

Another solution is to get a PS Audio Juice Bar power strip. You can plug several units into it, and use a premium power cord to power the bar.
Cheers,
Gregg

One other option it to purchase a good IEC (I've bought the gold plated Furutech), then do a bit of surgery with a Dremel tool! I plan to do this to a pair of Marantz monoblocks that I will use as amps for my Tact subwoofers. If it works...I might even take a stab at the CJ Premier 8's....