Say it aint so--- Teres quality question

Thanks Lugnut for your sincere post. I for one always enjoy you posts because of your honest, straightforward answers, and enlightened suggestions.
Ron

I too am bulding my own turntable, using a combination of cocobolo wood and brass. And while i have no direct experience with the Teres TT, I absolutley agree with Lugnut, that the term accuracy for a wood-worker is totally different that of a machinist. Every piece of wood on my TT is finished on a lathe or mill, its the only way to get the wood to close enough to my definition of accurate.

My .02.

OK, Once again, most of you here know what I am doing.

I agree with Patrick about the quality of the bearing, etc. I will also say that the quality of the acrylic platter is top notch. The only problem I can see with the acrylic platter is some VERY FINE scratches, which I doubt 99% of people out there would notice. If I thought it was a problem, I'd call Chris, and I'm sure he would take care of it.

If you have an issue with Teres (the company) woodwooking skills, try this: DO IT YOUR SELF! I am. Then you can find out just how hard it is to do properly. You can get it perfect, if you want, I know I can. But, a very big but, why spend the energy to make it absolutely perfect if it does not have to be? There are parameters that need to be met, but outside of that you just get ridiculous. I can build you one that is absolutely perfect in every aspect, but it will cost you 10-12k. And that's for just a wood one, no inlays, no bells and whistles, no veneer. End grain on the edges. Do you want to spend that? If you do, it will be perfect. Flat, level, no gaps, no cup. Wanna know something funny; it will not stay that way. Wood is affected by temperature, humidity, and other factors. IT MOVES. It's organic.

I consider myself a very accomplished woodworker. I do very high end work. For those who are willing to pay for it. I am very expensive. I can't imagine how Teres builds the table for the price they get for them. I am willing to bet that if you take a look (physically take a look) at a 300 series, the quality will be higher than the 200 series, which is higher than the 100 series. More money = higher quality, period.

BTW, I don't feel at all guilty about using exotics. The denser the better, and I am not in the least worried about ants, termites, fire, or any of that goofy crap.

I posted an error and wish to correct this. The platter isn't cupped 1/8". It's more like 1/64" but the cup is irregular as I move a true straight edge around its surface. I'd like to know if the platter is supposed to be flat. Would someone with an acrylic platter please post a comparrison?

>>BTW, I don't feel at all guilty about using exotics. The denser the better, and I am not in the least worried about ants, termites, fire, or any of that goofy crap.

Hi Joe: The way the statement is structured it is a little hard to tell but I hope you are not saying that being concerned for exotic hardwoods is "goofy crap." I'm not saying don't get a Teres and, in fact, I might get one. But even folks dealing with instruments (guitars etc) have started researching and changing things based on this reality.

Lugnut: I appreciate your post and can't believe anybody would hold it against you.

Joe above >>why spend the energy to make it absolutely perfect if it does not have to be?

I guess this is the big Q: What tolerance is required for a table? I can't answer that one and I'm very interested in everyone's thoughts. I tend to agree with Joe(he as way more experience in wood than I do) that, even if the table is laminated "like a boat" it is going to move.

Sincerely
I remain,