Am I brushing records wrong?

Matt:

What are you using for a cleaning solution?

I start (before a brush ever touches the LP) with warm water blasted through a Water-Pik and then follow up with an alcohol/water cleaning solution worked with a brush. I use a detergent added mix/solution if the LP seems to warrant it (meaning mystery prints/stains).

I also only use carbon fiber brushes (Philips are my current ones) for dry brushing before/after play, never wet. I was not aware that they could be used "wet", so maybe I'm out of the link with this.

I am currently still using the Groovmaster supplied long bristled brush for wet cleaning, but if I ever get going through the bulk of our LP's I will most likely need/go through quite a few wet brushes. Don't really know what to go with/look for though suspect that a quality natural/organic fiber paint brush might be OK as it should be softer than the vinyl. Anyway, still need to figure this out.

I clean in the kitchen (tile counter top/linolium floor), so dust is not much of an issue even though the rest of our place is "dust city". Once the LP is rinsed/blasted it does not attract dust anyway.

Being a bit clumsy, other than using plastic tubs inserted in the ceramic sinks, I also line the counter tops within the work area with linen (old tablecloths).

I have read of people using soft cotton towels, but this seems to be asking for it (dust/fibers). Suppose that neither would be needed if you are sure handed (I'm not).

As I have not yet refurbished a cheesy 60's record vacuum I'm still using a plastic coated wire drying rack (don't see much of a need to vacuum, other than the time factor, when using a Water-Pik and "plenty" of warm water for the pre and final rinses).

Sorry, don't know how you are picking up the dust and/or maintaining it. I have never had less than stellar results with my basic routine (much better results than local friends who use auto machines only on used/dirty LP's).

The ticket is to thoroughly irrigate most/all hard particles from the grooves prior to brushing, otherwise these foreign particles can end up scratching the LP.

PS:

New LP's require two deep cleanings from my experience. Other than the first cleaning a second cleaning is needed following 3-5 plays.

Not certain why this is (perhaps material lathed off by the stylus) but they can sound much better following the second cleaning.

I've had this happen with used LP's as well (discovered this when giving noisy ones a second cleaning/chance), but this has not occuredd too often as usually the second cleaning does little/no good.

I have read about annoying/persistant surface noise from others, but have rarely experienced this myself with well cleaned LP's of decent/good condition. I also own mainly older LP's (not newly manufactured ones).

Other than basic setup perhaps the cartridges and/or phono preamps have a role in this? I have used quite a few (different) phono preamps, but not that many different cartridges over a 30 year period.

I also assume that you are using clean/fresh liners once the LP's have been cleaned. This is pretty much a must though not expensive if you don't mind plastic sleeves.

Matt,

Yes, you are brushing wrong. Carbon-fibre brushes work by harnessing static electricity - which simultaneously causes the dust particles to adhere to the edge of the bristle, and de-statics the record.

Hold the brush perpendicular to the spindle hole and touch a piece of grounded metal (turntable chassis for example). Don't press down -- the brush's own weight provides sufficient contact. Turn on the platter and let it spin for one revolution -- then pull the brush directly away from the spindle in a smooth motion. When it leaves the record you will feel a tiny spark through your finger where it touches the metal chassis.

If you look at the brush now, you will see that the dust has adhered to the end of the bristles.

Patrick:

The Philips Carbon brushes I use have removable grounding wires supplied with them. Never tried the wire ground, but w/o being aware of the benefit I do steady myself by placing a hand on the grounded metal equipment rack.

Nice info to know as the few times the brushes seemed to be doing a poor job were probably caused by my not touching the rack (being unaware of my inconsistancy, or the grounding issue, I recleaned the brushes and the LP's).

Yup most defenitly you must be grounded by touching a peice of equ. that does have a ground for the - ions to excape through that path. As for holding the brush (audioquest) I hold it at a slight tilt say 110 degree`s not the 90 degree`s as most do. I also pull it to the outer edge say after 5 or 6 rotation`s very slowly. With this method I get ALL the dust and lint off and I mean ALL. I have been told it`s not the proper way to pull it back, and also I should hold it at 90 degree`s but sometime`s rule`s can be broke`n with good result`s. David