Power cord for an REL Sub

Here is an old thread you may find helpful..
#999409196
REL Sub Woofer Tweaks
Being the proud owner of two REL Storm III Sub's I have noted the following from previous posts. One recommendation was to get rid of the supplied REL Spikes. I was fortunate to have the practical ability to drill, tap the matching thread per millimeter size, and to insert threaded studs into some Mod Squad Tip Toe's. The Tip Toe's were the perfect size, and I also used adequately sized fender washers as shims between the Tip Toe's and the REL feet for levelling purposes.

The biggest surprise was when I changed the factory supplied REL Power Cord to a Dedicated Audio " Pds " type.

I do not know how or why for the Power Cord but the difference was significant.

I advise all REL Sub owners to try the above changes, and I think you will be very surprised.

David
Djohn (Threads | Answers)

09-02-01

I replaced the supplied cord with a Coincident power cord and the sub improved noticeably. More pitch specifics noticed as well as improved dynamics. A hospital grade receptacle helped things almost as much as the cord replacement.

The Mac Delta 1 power cord is very, very good with a REL subwoofer. If you are lucky enough to locate a used one for under $300, I'd recommend it.

I replaced my Storm III PC with one of Subaruguru's DIY PC's. Big difference over stock and inexpensive too.

If I may be so bold to put my two cents in. I have dual REL Storm III's in my system. What I found that worked quiet well was not to use the spikes at all. Rather go down to the hardware store and buy a 15x15x2" paver made of concrete. Thats what REL recommends and I found it to tighten up the bass nicely. With recommendation to a power cord. Since the frequency is somewhat limited I built a similar cord to my Silver-Rhodium Gain Cord that I sell. Only I made it out of copper wire rather than silver, it works very nicely to maintain the dynamic power that a subwoofer needs.