Floorstanders over Suspended Hardwood-Help Please


I have a pair of Silverline Sonatas that weigh in at about 120 pounds each. When I lived in my previous home, I used a set of four points under each speaker over a thick carpet and an equally think pad. I recently moved and these speakers will now be in a room with suspended hardwood floors. There is a berber carpet over a portion of the room and under where the speakers will be placed. With their weight, the Silverlines will drive the points right through the berber and couple with the hardwood. Bad.

I need to find a solution and have thought of three possibilities:
1) Find a very thick pad to place under the berber and use the points like before.
2) Use discs under the points directly atop the berber. Stable?
3) Get some 1-2” slabs of marble, using iso-pads between the marble and the carpet and points/discs between the speakers and the marble.

I have tried using slabs under other floorstanders over carpet and always found them to be less than rock solid in the vertical plane.

Do any of these approaches seem best, or are there others to consider. Please keep in mind that I do NOT want to spend several hundred dollars on platforms such as Sistrum, etc.
motdathird
My flooring is actually 3/4" not 1/2" oak (my typo) and is t-and-g blind nailed over 3/4 ply. I'm still sure that points will leave an impression, but it is impervious to keys! :-)

Believe that I will give the final Stehno suggestion a try and maybe consider some variation of the Hdm/Socrates approach if that doesn't pass the wifely test.
Place a cement stepping stone with washed rock top on the berber. They come in various sizes. You can spray paint them black so they look better and do not call great attention to themselves. They are very heavy as to sink into the carpet and form a solid base. Measure where your spikes would be and drill holes into the concrete and place your speakers with spikes into the holes deep enough until the speakers are stable and do not rock back and forth. Placing a speaker directly on tile on top of carpet does not always create a stable situation. The speaker tends to move around on the tile. You can also use the stone and then buy a 1.5 by 1.5 inch by 18 inch piece of wood ( two for each speaker ) which can be cut to match the stone. You turn your speaker on its side - measure where the spikes will be and drill holes in the wood and place them on the speaker spikes so they form a stand to be placed on the stone. This way you do not drill into the stone. You can use a smooth stone this way also. The two pieces of wood should be longer than your speaker and run parallel to each other - one in front and one in the back. This way you are spiking into hardwood . This will elevate your speakers the distance of the wood so you can adjust by using a 1 by 1 inch or 2 by 2 inch depending on the length of your spikes. I do the last way with my ML Odysseys as not to spike into my hardwood floor ( no carpet ) - I do not use a stone on my hardwood floor. I put felt under the wooden pieces to be able to move them and position them more easily while they are spiked to the speakers. The speakers are very stable by the stand-like nature of the two pieces of wood - its like spiking your speakers to your floor without actually doing so.
Coupling speakers to the floor, or in the case of monitors to the stand, is another audio myth. There is no good reason for it.

Charlie
I agree with Danvetc, and believe that you ought to DEcouple speakers from the floor, walls, everything. Best thing is to hang them, but room cosmetics usually prevent this. I know this works with Magneplanars and the Bose 901's, especially if you have a big room with cathedral ceiling. I never experienced it with a conventional box speaker, but it ought to work. Why do you put Monitors up on skinny stands?
Audiobugged: Laminated glass (as opposed to tempered) poses no threat to kids as it is actually two layers of glass with a very resilient type of glue between the layers. It is quite thin (about 1/8" to 1/4") and will not shatter or break unless it's really subjected to violent stuff (that's why it's called security glass). It is also virtually unnoticeable, cheap, and because it's thin doesn't present problems as a result of raising the speaker too much off the floor. In this application, (carpet, suspended floor, etc) which is exactly what Mot describes, I really like it.

I had my speakers spiked through the carpet into the floors before and would never go back.