Viridian: I agree with your observations about the majority of stock F's "ringing like a bell". There are ways to DRASTICALLY improve their performance in this area though. Since "ringing" has to do with transient response and internal damping, any improvements made in these areas improve the performance in all other areas.
1) F's have a LOT of driver mass. Unless the cabinet is properly damped and tuned for the individual driver being used ( most from the factory are not even remotely close ), the driver will tend to overshoot on large peaks and ring once it is "thoroughly excited". By fine tuning / altering the damping within the cabinet, you effectively:
A) lower the Q of the system
B) reduce the impedance peak at resonance
C) reduce the rate of roll-off below resonance
D) improve the low frequency characteristics
E) improve the transient response of the driver as a whole
F) increase power transfer
G) improve the amplifier / speaker interface
2) F's are a very tough load. Besides producing a very low impedance at very low frequencies ( appr 1 ohm at DC and close to 2 ohms at low and mid-frequencies ), they are also VERY in-efficient. From what i've been able to calculate, i have one set that runs about 82-83 dB's @ 1 watt and the other set is somewhere around 80-81 dB's or so. The early Ohm A's were supposedly somewhere around 78 dB's or so !!! As such, you need an amp that is TRULY capable of a GREAT amount of voltage and current. On top of this, it must be capable of delivering that power into very low impedances at very low frequencies i.e. where you already need gobs of power to begin with. Many "big" and "well respected" amps aren't "quite as big" or "quite as respectable" as one might think when trying to drive this type of load.
3) Besides the low efficiency and low impedance situation, these speakers produce a great amount of reflected EMF. This is due to their very large motor structure. This makes them hard to control and load into as the amp literally has to "muscle" past the "back-pressure" that the speaker itself is generating. As such, all but the sturdiest of amps will cough up a lung when trying to drive these speakers. I can't think of an SS amp made "way back when" that could really make the F's sing. By the time that amps of this calibre started to show up, the F's were either out of production or in the last stages of production. Due to the low impedance situation and lack of bass damping, tubes are pretty much out of the question with this speaker. Even "professional" type amps like the big Mesa Baron don't work too good for too long. High current draw due to their low impedances tends to pull quite hard on the tubes, shortening their life span quite noticeably.
4) The factory wiring is attrocious to say the least. One needs to disconnect the factory wiring at the Walsh driver and bypass it altogether. Feeding signal from the amp via high quality ( low impedance ) speaker cables directly into the Walsh makes a world of difference. Not only does this change the amount of control that the amp has over the driver, high frequency response is drastically improved in terms of both quality and extension. The use of a "normal" speaker cable with its' higher impedance ( most speaker cables are at least 40+ ohms ) will somewhat reduce these benefits, but it will be a big step forward as compared to using the internal OEM wiring that was supplied within the F's. For best results, speaker cabling with a nominal impedance below 20 ohms ( at most ) works best.
With all of that in mind, i sincerely doubt that more than a few handfuls of people have ever really heard what a well set up pair of F's are capable of. Quite honestly, i don't know if the guys that actually built and designed these things way back when had ever really heard what these things are capable of under "optimum" condititions. If i did not have the test equipment that i have, know how to interpret the data that it presented to me and impliment the necessary changes that i thought that they needed and have amps that were up to the task, i myself would not have the high opinion of these drivers that i do.
Having said that, the two sets of F's that i have vary quite markedly in measurements and sonics from one another. While Viridian is probably aware of this, most others probably don't know that all Walsh drivers were made piece by piece using hand labor. Each driver is comprised of three different types of materials ( titanium, aluminum and paper ) and are divided up into individual sections along the length of the driver. Once these different materials were hand glued together to form one large cone, varying levels of foam damping material were applied to the driver inside the cone. This was done by means of adhesive to the back of the metal sections, which helped to damp the ringing that all undamped metals tend to display once excited. As such, variances from unit to unit were not abnormal due to all of the hand labor. This is especially true when they first started production and were refining the design and near the end of production. Given just the variances in performance between the two sets that i have ( even their frames are quite different ), i do not doubt that one person could have a set that works reasonably well whereas the next person has a set that was a disaster out of the factory.
Sorry to side-track this thread, but i thought that others that own or are interested in what is an "out of the ordinary" speaker system might find this interesting. I'll shut up now : ) Sean
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1) F's have a LOT of driver mass. Unless the cabinet is properly damped and tuned for the individual driver being used ( most from the factory are not even remotely close ), the driver will tend to overshoot on large peaks and ring once it is "thoroughly excited". By fine tuning / altering the damping within the cabinet, you effectively:
A) lower the Q of the system
B) reduce the impedance peak at resonance
C) reduce the rate of roll-off below resonance
D) improve the low frequency characteristics
E) improve the transient response of the driver as a whole
F) increase power transfer
G) improve the amplifier / speaker interface
2) F's are a very tough load. Besides producing a very low impedance at very low frequencies ( appr 1 ohm at DC and close to 2 ohms at low and mid-frequencies ), they are also VERY in-efficient. From what i've been able to calculate, i have one set that runs about 82-83 dB's @ 1 watt and the other set is somewhere around 80-81 dB's or so. The early Ohm A's were supposedly somewhere around 78 dB's or so !!! As such, you need an amp that is TRULY capable of a GREAT amount of voltage and current. On top of this, it must be capable of delivering that power into very low impedances at very low frequencies i.e. where you already need gobs of power to begin with. Many "big" and "well respected" amps aren't "quite as big" or "quite as respectable" as one might think when trying to drive this type of load.
3) Besides the low efficiency and low impedance situation, these speakers produce a great amount of reflected EMF. This is due to their very large motor structure. This makes them hard to control and load into as the amp literally has to "muscle" past the "back-pressure" that the speaker itself is generating. As such, all but the sturdiest of amps will cough up a lung when trying to drive these speakers. I can't think of an SS amp made "way back when" that could really make the F's sing. By the time that amps of this calibre started to show up, the F's were either out of production or in the last stages of production. Due to the low impedance situation and lack of bass damping, tubes are pretty much out of the question with this speaker. Even "professional" type amps like the big Mesa Baron don't work too good for too long. High current draw due to their low impedances tends to pull quite hard on the tubes, shortening their life span quite noticeably.
4) The factory wiring is attrocious to say the least. One needs to disconnect the factory wiring at the Walsh driver and bypass it altogether. Feeding signal from the amp via high quality ( low impedance ) speaker cables directly into the Walsh makes a world of difference. Not only does this change the amount of control that the amp has over the driver, high frequency response is drastically improved in terms of both quality and extension. The use of a "normal" speaker cable with its' higher impedance ( most speaker cables are at least 40+ ohms ) will somewhat reduce these benefits, but it will be a big step forward as compared to using the internal OEM wiring that was supplied within the F's. For best results, speaker cabling with a nominal impedance below 20 ohms ( at most ) works best.
With all of that in mind, i sincerely doubt that more than a few handfuls of people have ever really heard what a well set up pair of F's are capable of. Quite honestly, i don't know if the guys that actually built and designed these things way back when had ever really heard what these things are capable of under "optimum" condititions. If i did not have the test equipment that i have, know how to interpret the data that it presented to me and impliment the necessary changes that i thought that they needed and have amps that were up to the task, i myself would not have the high opinion of these drivers that i do.
Having said that, the two sets of F's that i have vary quite markedly in measurements and sonics from one another. While Viridian is probably aware of this, most others probably don't know that all Walsh drivers were made piece by piece using hand labor. Each driver is comprised of three different types of materials ( titanium, aluminum and paper ) and are divided up into individual sections along the length of the driver. Once these different materials were hand glued together to form one large cone, varying levels of foam damping material were applied to the driver inside the cone. This was done by means of adhesive to the back of the metal sections, which helped to damp the ringing that all undamped metals tend to display once excited. As such, variances from unit to unit were not abnormal due to all of the hand labor. This is especially true when they first started production and were refining the design and near the end of production. Given just the variances in performance between the two sets that i have ( even their frames are quite different ), i do not doubt that one person could have a set that works reasonably well whereas the next person has a set that was a disaster out of the factory.
Sorry to side-track this thread, but i thought that others that own or are interested in what is an "out of the ordinary" speaker system might find this interesting. I'll shut up now : ) Sean
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