Sean,
It's doubtful that there is any other type of clamps, etc. used to secure this to the cabinet. The screws were likely the only thing, so you have essentially a glued in place, press fit driver. The cabinet front is going to get chewed up a bit as I think you will need to use more of the screw driver/block tactic. See if you can get a couple of other helpers to simultaneously pry around the edge. Striking the driver from behind is the absolute last resort, IMHO. The driver flange can be straightened after removal, no sweat. But if the basket is bent from hitting the magnet, you're screwed. So, is your rear access via the crossover hole? The only other approach I can think of, assuming the driver flange or part of it is visible from the back, is a curved flat of the same diameter. I hope I make this clear so just visualize a piece of steel bent to the flange diameter. This could be a 3 or 4 inch piece. You may need to weld a handle on this for striking purposes. Tap or strike this tool as you move it around the driver. Eventually it will work lose but will, like said previously, probably bring some cabinet out with the driver. Holy cow, this is like working on my hot rod and trying to explain concepts gets increasingly tough. Is there a way to attach bolts to the flange with the threads facing away from the cabinet front? If so, you can fashion some metal straps to the bolts and use a slide hammer. Good luck. I'm out of ideas.
It's doubtful that there is any other type of clamps, etc. used to secure this to the cabinet. The screws were likely the only thing, so you have essentially a glued in place, press fit driver. The cabinet front is going to get chewed up a bit as I think you will need to use more of the screw driver/block tactic. See if you can get a couple of other helpers to simultaneously pry around the edge. Striking the driver from behind is the absolute last resort, IMHO. The driver flange can be straightened after removal, no sweat. But if the basket is bent from hitting the magnet, you're screwed. So, is your rear access via the crossover hole? The only other approach I can think of, assuming the driver flange or part of it is visible from the back, is a curved flat of the same diameter. I hope I make this clear so just visualize a piece of steel bent to the flange diameter. This could be a 3 or 4 inch piece. You may need to weld a handle on this for striking purposes. Tap or strike this tool as you move it around the driver. Eventually it will work lose but will, like said previously, probably bring some cabinet out with the driver. Holy cow, this is like working on my hot rod and trying to explain concepts gets increasingly tough. Is there a way to attach bolts to the flange with the threads facing away from the cabinet front? If so, you can fashion some metal straps to the bolts and use a slide hammer. Good luck. I'm out of ideas.
