How can i ......


get a woofer out of the cabinet ?

I have a good sized subwoofer with a 15" driver that i'd like to do some internal mods / repairs to. In order to do this, i have to take the woofer out as it is the only reasonable sized access point to the internals. The problem is, i can't get the rassafrassin' driver out of the box. I have tried everything that i know to do this without going "bonsai" on it. I almost think that the driver was not only screwed in but also glued in place.

The woofer is a JBL 2235, so it is a sturdily built driver. All of the screws have been removed that hold the driver in place and the rear hatch for the binding posts have been removed. Having done that, i can push directly on the rear of the driver and NO luck what so ever. I have even tried pushing on the driver from the rear while my brother tried to pry the driver out from the front using a large screwdriver as a wedge. The only result of that effort was a small amount of damage to the baffle from the screwdriver digging into the wood. Luckily, that is all hidden under grille cloth.

Short of resting a 2 x 4 on the back of the driver and whacking it with a hammer a few times, has anybody got any suggestions ? This one has been a real ....... to say the least and i want to get it out of the house. It is a gift for my Dad, so it can take up space over there once i can figure this out and get it done. ANY help or suggestions appreciated ( short of a stick of dynamite ) : ) Sean
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sean
Perhaps a solvent? The first one to come to mind is nail polish remover, but a good cabinet maker would know better than I would. How about applying just a little overnight and see if that loosens it up. The punchline is to use little enough to not let gravity carry it to the glues in the driver.
Sean,

It's doubtful that there is any other type of clamps, etc. used to secure this to the cabinet. The screws were likely the only thing, so you have essentially a glued in place, press fit driver. The cabinet front is going to get chewed up a bit as I think you will need to use more of the screw driver/block tactic. See if you can get a couple of other helpers to simultaneously pry around the edge. Striking the driver from behind is the absolute last resort, IMHO. The driver flange can be straightened after removal, no sweat. But if the basket is bent from hitting the magnet, you're screwed. So, is your rear access via the crossover hole? The only other approach I can think of, assuming the driver flange or part of it is visible from the back, is a curved flat of the same diameter. I hope I make this clear so just visualize a piece of steel bent to the flange diameter. This could be a 3 or 4 inch piece. You may need to weld a handle on this for striking purposes. Tap or strike this tool as you move it around the driver. Eventually it will work lose but will, like said previously, probably bring some cabinet out with the driver. Holy cow, this is like working on my hot rod and trying to explain concepts gets increasingly tough. Is there a way to attach bolts to the flange with the threads facing away from the cabinet front? If so, you can fashion some metal straps to the bolts and use a slide hammer. Good luck. I'm out of ideas.
Funny this is a subwoofer. I tried to take the driver out of one of my subs(HSU VTF-3) and gave up. The sub was brand new, I just wanted to take it apart because(the doctors are still working on this one)....

I removed the screws and after a little prying no luck. I gave up because it was brand new and I did not want to screw it up.

Maybe manufactures use heavy duty glue plus screws on subs..?

Marty
Was just thinking if you have or know someone who has one of those little steam machines. The glue or gasket material probably is so old it has dried out and is like concrete. Also there is an automotive gasket remover that might loosen things up if you are carful of the driver. Just an idea. TG
ya know, I had a buddy who had this problem once, i cant remember the brand, it wasnt anything spectacular.

He ended up putting a scewdriver through the driver and got so mad he threw the thing on the ground and broke the box open.

after careful inspection, it turns out that the subwoofer had had these little mushroom looking bolts on the back of the outer edge that anchor it down into the box. These would be put into holes cut in the box and slide through a groove next to the holes, and the "mushroom cap" would be anchored in.

turns out all he had to do to was unscrew the main screws on the outer edge, then twist the subwoofer about 4 degrees to the left and the anchors would hit reach an area large enough for them to pass through, anf the subwoofer would pop right off.

maybe try rotating that bad boy before using chemicals.

ive seen some furniture that fastens together in this manor.