Got my very first system. What's my next move?


Hey everyone,

First of all, I'd like to thank all of you who stopped me from selling my father's 10 year-old McIntosh components. I've talked to some other audiophiles and dealers as well, and it looks like I'll be keeping these babies for a long time.

My first system (mostly given by my father), consists of:

McIntosh MC7300 power amp
McIntosh C40 preamp
McIntosh MCD7008 CD player
McIntosh MR7083 Tuner
Totem Hawk floorstanding speakers
Siltech MXT London interconnects
MIT AVt3 bi-wire speaker cables

Also please keep in mind that my current room is pretty small (10' x 14').

My question was, what is my next move from here? I currently have about $1500 saved up for A/V spending, and if I wait until september, it'll be up to $2500. Many have suggested that I purchase a subwoofer (REL Strata 3 or 5) and some have suggested I invest the money in a good power conditioner (Shunyata something...). I'd like to hear some recommendations from the real audiophile group (the A'goners). Please help :)

Oh, I use the system mostly for music by the way. I'd say about 70/30 music/movies.

Thanks in advance,

Seong
spacekadet
Great responses above. I agree that your Dad was very kind in offering you what he did. I hope that you've gained more respect for both your Father and the components that you currently have after going through all of this : )

As far as equipment "stands" or "racks" go, you're going to get a LOT of conflicting suggestions on the subject. Believe it or not, and i wouldn't have believed it myself unless i had experienced it myself, racks really can alter the sonics of a system in a BIG way. As such, don't rush into something that "looks cool" or is "cosmetically matching". That is, if you value the sound of your system. There are things that make specific rack designs more desirable than others.

My suggestion when shopping for a rack is to look for something that is very rigid yet relatively low in mass. The heavier that the rack is by itself, or any given component of the rack is ( individual shelves, etc... ), the worse your system will sound. Then again, most would not know that their system could sound "better", "worse" or even "different" unless they've tried several different types of racks.

The key to all of this is resonance ( vibration ) control. Obviously, metal can be made quite rigid and low in weight, but at the same time, it will also "resonate" or "ring" once it is excited. That's because metal by itself lacks "self-damping" properties. On the other hand, wood comes in all different types of rigidity and densities, so there are a LOT of variables here.

After learning about the sonic differences between racks and being in a similar position to yours, i looked for some type of platform to build upon that allowed me to experiment a bit. That is, i wanted a design that allowed me to change components ( and sonic signatures ) of the rack itself. The easiest way for me to do this was to look for a low mass yet rigid frame where the shelves were not "anchored" to the support structure. Once i had the basic components for the "frame", i could alter the density and rigidity of the materials used for the shelves. This proved to be very enlightening to say the least.

If you don't want to "experiment" here, and i can understand this, i would probably look for an all wood rack that wasn't real heavy. There are several woods that combine lower mass with good rigidity, producing a rack that is neither "live" nor "dead". A rack system that lacks internal damping i.e. is "too live" will be easily excited ( via air-borne musical energy or floor-borne energy ) and "ring". A rack that is very heavy, overly damped will be "dead" and will muddy the sound while robbing the system of transient energy. Finding the right combo of the two ( "live" but not prone to ringing ) can be tough. Whatever it is that you choose, just make sure that you take into account spacing for adequate ventilation of your components, especially the amp.

If you do some reading in the archives, you'll find quite a few threads on the subject. Take all of these comments with a grain of salt as there are different parties posting here that have a vested interest in your wallet i.e. industry professionals that market products in this category. Some of them acknowledge their affiliations, some don't. Personally, i am not involved in the marketing of any audio related products.

If there is one commonality between the different vantage points involved in this subject, that point would be that racks / support structures DO affect the sonics of a system, for better or worse. While it is easy to overlook this aspect of rack design and just go for form, functionality and / or cosmetics, you might end up throwing away quite a bit of performance that may be hidden within the components themselves by doing so. Sean
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I like Sound Organisation rack for $300-$350 sold by Audio Advisor. It is black and unlike many racks, the shelves do not extend beyond the legs. You may not like glass because it rings so you can either switch out shelves or used sorbothane feet for the components. The glass is not a problem for me with lightweight components under 10 pounds.
Also I would HIGHLY recommend roller balls for feet under the CDP. This is the best tweak I ever did to my stereo.
sean,your right on track about metal racks resonating, my last rack was a diy made from oak & my new rack is metal & mdf.

my diy rack seemed to absorb or deflect better, i couldnt get my cdp to skip no matter how loud i jammed but the new metal rack threw the cdp all outta whack.

i ended up filling my new metal rack's leg's with spray foam insulation & this has seemed to dampen the vibration's comming up thru the legs & i had to add isolation devices under the cdp.

so far it seems i have corrected the problem but only time will tell the whole story.

mike.
enjoy the system...if you really,really feel the need to upgrade. i would suggest interconnect and speaker cables.

enjoy,

mike
I would look into room conditioning.
Placing pillows behind the speakers will give you an idea of how much benefit there is to doing it right.

If you are handy with hands, there are internet sights that will teach you how to make stuff economically.

http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/a.htm

I do love the sound of Mac. When they break down, don't throw them away but try to fix them - half of all the macs are still playing after more than half a century!
Try not to leave them on over night - since they are old already.

If you get the itchy to upgrade, do experiment with room treatments before - I sold many components and later realised it was my room.